ACL strobe construction for dummies

[DanoNJ]

Let me preface this post by saying I am in no way an expert on this subject.  However, I wanted to post some instructions in ‘lay mans’ terms for novices like myself.

I want to thank some of those that have helped me so far:  Brain (budude) for some of the pictures you will see, Chuck (Cenote), DaveA, mrpackethead and others…..

There are several accepted methods of soldering SMDs (surface mount devices).  One is by hand; another is using a hot plate and third is using a reflow oven. If you are reading this I guarantee you do not have a semi professional reflow oven, but I bet you have an old toaster oven.  Same thing without the exacting control of temp. Well not really the same, but will do.  Find below some links to the different methods. 

Let’s get started.  While some of the packets ordered will have different components, basically they are similar.

My strobes will be built with a PIC chip and use ½ w LEDs.  They will not be triggered and remain on all evening (no controller input).  Your application may vary.

Let assume you have all the components and boards.  You will have a PCB – printed circuit board – which actually contains 40 individual boards. These will be separated due to the large board having been perforated.  A little pressure and snap!
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I have preferred to construct mine in strips of 9 boards.
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Currently I am hand soldering using wire solder (.022) and using only a simple soldering iron.  Yes, I’m using less than perfect tools. I also have solder paste, however, not a hot enough hot plate. Solder paste can be used with a hand solder also.  One thing I have found while speaking to different people is that everyone has an opinion on the best thing to use.  You will find what works best for you.  And along the way, you will learn several different methods, making this a great teaching project!

You will have to install four resistors, two chips (a NUD and a PIC), and a transistor and of course the LED.  Please remember that the end result of your strobe may alter some of these steps.

Each side of the board will have components.  We first identify the top. This is the side with writing (silk screening).  Most all components will be housed here and a good place to start. The order in which you install the parts does not matter, so long as you install all of them.    See what works for you.

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I stated with the NUD.  This is an 8 leg chip.  The chip has an orientation and must be installed correctly.  If you look at the chip, you will see a line (on mine) or dot. The dot denotes the number one pin.  This line / dot is installed closest to the edge of the board.  Using paste or wire solder, connect to the board. Be sure ALL legs are making contact. I used a photographer’s loop which I found helpful.

Instructions originally posted list a 6R98 resistor, however, the ones sent and work fine are 7R15.  These will have a blue / green color to the top.

Next was the 7.5 ohm resistor – installed next to the NUD, followed by the 10K and 1K.  In the photo you see the 1001 = 1K and 1003 = 100K.  Please note the location of these.
 
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Next I flipped the board over and installed the PIC which is the 6 legged chip.  Install the same as the NUD.  Follow this by installing the second 1K resistor (1001).  Now back to the top, install the thru hole transistor – follow the silk screen on the PCB for orientation.
Finally the LED.  I tested each LED  prior to attaching. Any 3vdc power source will work and not harm the LED. The positive lead which is the longer of the two goes to the hole marked one.
We are pretty much done with the bulk of the construction now.

Following is a link to hot plate / paste method thanks to Joel (jrock64)

Cooking up some strobes

Here is a link to general instructions for SMD soldering:
http://store.curiousinventor.com/guides/Surface_Mount_Soldering/101

Here is the link to some general discussion of the build of these on DYIC
. http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?12881-Building-LED-Strobes

Next we go to wiring these up!  (you’ll have to wait, I’m not there yet…)

If I've made a mistake, please let me know!

Please see post below for a picture of a completed strobe. Note the way the LED is bent.

[RandyA]

Nice job Dano !! Can't wait for the rest...

Randy

[ɟɐsʇǝppʎ]

Great work Dano, should help me and many others when building strobes

[cenote]

Ps. It's 5volts, not 3.  Other than that, Nice job. Can't wait for your write up on programing the chip.

[budude]

Ps. It's 5volts, not 3.  Other than that, Nice job. Can't wait for your write up on programing the chip.

Just to clarify - that was a reference to testing the LEDs - not running the strobe itself - but you're right - it does take 5v to run the strobe with the PIC.

[DanoNJ]

Here is a picture of the completed strobe.  Note that the LED is bent over so it is in line with the PCB.  This will allow the cover to be installed.

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Also as noted above, the reference to the 3vdc is to only test the LED prior to installing.  The strobe itself will run on 5vdc using the PIC.  Testing the LED is a good idea as there may be a failed unit in there. You never know.  This step will also insure which leg is the positive and which is the common or neg - a must know as the pos goes in hole number 1.  Installed incorrectly the strobe will not operate at all and you'll be pulling your hair out trying to figure out why.

[cenote]

Ooooooppppppssss Dan 1 - chuck 0

[DanoNJ]

Ever try and desolder a SMD?  Well, I personally know it's not fun. I had the misfortune of soldering some PICs incorrectly.  To avoid this from here on out, I simply marked the one pin using a dental pic and some acrylic paint (white out would work or a Sharpie).  Easiest time is while they are in the tray as the pins are all in the same direction.
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Also found a loop is fantastic for checking your work.
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[DanoNJ]

completed strobe (minus wire up) with crystal

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[Braveit1]

Excellent pictures Dano!  They show every detail.  I built mine a little different.  I started with the pic side so I could program them before adding the other components.  I had some pics fail because I used to much heat or other reasons so if the programming wouldn't take I didn't finish that pcb.  I was presured for time to get them completed before Christmas and didn't want to have to try and fix the ones that didn't work until after the season.

[DanoNJ]

Thanks!   BTW, the last one pictured above (finished one) looks like crap to the ones I just did last night.  Practice makes for a better job.
I don't have a PICKIT as of now, but I like the idea of programming first.  Saves some time and materials.  I've started to attach the chips first now prior to any resistors.  More room to work.
I'm now looking for the correct way to wire these buggers up!

[JerryPlak]

Hey Dano I Like it I like it 

[DanoNJ]

Here is a fantastic explaination to wiring written by Steve.  A must read!!

Thanks Steve for your efforts!!

http://forums.auschristmaslighting.com/index.php/topic,807.new.html#new

[DanoNJ]

I used Steve's PDF - http://www.src.net.au/Personal/Projects/TPR1Strobe/Programming_TRP1-Strobe.pdf to program my strobes. Remember, I'm using these as stand alone, so I used 2 seperate hex files.  Then I hooked the (+) pos to the number one  pin and (-) ground to the number 2 pin.  I jumpered the number 2 and 4 pins which will tell the PIC to run as long as power is applied. [ Guests cannot view attachments ]

Here is a quick video of some in action.  Really bad video but....

ACL strobes test 2

Next we have to secure the crystal and encase the unit.

[DanoNJ]

Here is the crystal attached and the board weatherproofed ( I hope).
 
I used shrink tube over the end of the crystal and slightly longer than the PCB.  While hot, I crimped with a set of pliers and finished off with a dab of hot glue where the wires come out.
 
I made a string of these simular to Eddy's.