Recent content by deonb

Jim updated the SanDevices firmware in 5.023 to support WS2813 and WS2818. It works thereafter. I had 6 x WS2813 strips and about 80x WS2818 strings running last year. (The WS2818 is the string version of the WS2813). They're not a perfect solution. The WS2818's I had were very unreliable...

On side-by-side configs, is it better to have 2 power supplies in one enclosure and 2 controllers in another? Or is 1 power supply + 1 controller per enclosure better?

I was fully prepared to come back and say, "but white light should reflect more UV!", and then I researched and realized, yeah, I have no idea... http://gizmodo.com/why-are-drought-balls-black-instead-of-white-1724040253 Ok, I'll go with the prevailing experience that black is better.

Wow, I'm surprised about the black wires & coro holding up better than the white. That's the reverse of what I would expect. What could be the reason behind that?

I'm pretty familiar now with running pixels in a cold, wet place (Seattle). However, the end of the year I plan to have a pixel display in South Africa. I'm just going to put a bunch of stuff in a crate around May and ship it there. What do I need to know about running in a hot environment...

That's actually exactly what I do for pixels, but the math doesn't quite work out for general DC lights. It is cheaper than shipping directly to South Africa, but nowhere near the price range of 110V lights. Not really. Apart from RGB strings, there aren't really mainstream DC light dealers...

That's probably for 50 count lights. My cost for 100 count lights landed are $1.50 each. Add the cost of the 110V transformer, which works out to around another $1.50 per string. My A/C controller cost per channel (Ren32 + DirkCheapSSR) is around $2.00 each. So now we're talking about $5.00...

They only sell 240v mains lights - and only for indoor use. No 24v. The 110v lights are imported from the U.S., since I mostly live in the U.S, and have access to a periodic LCL, I can cheaply import it. Not so with China. I'm aware. The 110v lights I'm using is of FAR better quality than the...

South Africa. My choices are either to use indoor-rated 240V equipment from local distributers in South Africa, or import. It is highly uncommon in South Africa to have outdoor lights, and when people do, they use indoor equipment that disintegrate within a season. Not even - 2 weeks in, and all...

At the risk of being crucified again on here, I know this is mostly a D.C. forum. Unfortunately I don't have good access to D.C. lights, outside of pixels. Most of my lights are 110V, but my supply is 240V. However, I can get access to a 240V to 55V-0-55V center tapped earth transformer, and I...

I can see that! Sorry. I'll go away. I see everybody is very hesitant about running line voltage on here. Things may be different in Australia, but virtually all 240V lights I've ever seen in my area, are using identical lightbulbs, identical wiring gauges and identical insulation from their...

I posted this on another site, but someone suggested I repost here, because there's more experience on this forum with 240V equipment. I want a "50% duty cycle limited, 240v Renard"! But why?? So I can run 110V lights directly off a Renard in a 240v environment Uh. Why not just run 240V...