Recent content by merryoncherry

Just where the concrete base is. Don't suppose you need a real hole, or a flower bed, or something else that can just stay there?

It might kill the grass depending on the grass species, climate, etc... Just mini trees for 3 months (Oct-Dec) killed mine... it's hot, dry, and dark in there. Some other grass grew back in those spots, so good news, it is easy to tell where they go each year without measuring.

I'm having trouble telling which way the wires go but you could also cut them apart and reorient... the panels... the storage works out better anyway... and IIRC the holes to zip tie them weren't perfect and I ended up drilling more anyway.

You can edit the model data, the tabs are for the depth. It will take some time, as you may have 2500 numbers to move, but it isn't too bad.

I run mine as Pi hat, the Pi audio is useless anyway. Guessing you'd need a license for any DPIPixels too, so if you need more than 2 pixel strings put a Baldrick and network in the enclosure with it... then it can do lots of pixels, lots of sensors, and be a player.

The price is a few cents less than in years past, let's just hope the pixels are better.

That's the way. Even if it is marked with the little paper tag (check both ends) or in the Ali listing, not a bad idea. Then, after you confirm it, tape that marked one to the top of the reel for safekeeping... future you will thank you. Every rule of thumb I know of has some documented...

Looks like the issue in the thread is solved, but for anyone else coming along (with the problem I expected based on the title), there are in fact two editions of the GE Flake A. You can tell them apart quickly by looking for the presence or absence of the center node. The center node is an...

In the ones I have dissected, the V+ and V- conductors go straight past all the pixels ... so the solder joint doesn't take the strain directly. Even for the very tiny ones. There are breaks in the data line (except for the addressed pixels).

Plan on spare pixels, in case you damage any when cutting, or if something goes wrong. Also, if you want a star, you might leave a port for that.

The Baldrick Switchy is a legit option. You would just use ethernet to drive it, so plug the Switchy into the network also. Your player would send the data to both the K8-B and the Switchy. (If the K8 is your player also, it can send network packets to Switchy.) The other option I offer up...

Agree, when I did the frame for the spooky tree, or other cases where "winging it" was the only option, the manual conduit bender was a good choice. (Those also are pretty well marked for 90 degrees or other common angles.) If I wanted to make 28 even semicircular walk-through arches, I'd go...

Yes, you might want 2.5cm spacing on the matrix, but you can use 5cm-spaced pixels and double the string back on itself - "alternate nodes" style... the longer length gives more flexibility to drop to the next row, easier splice, and such. This is what I did for the mini trees and spider web...

I see you have a red box around this already, but double-check your spacing... 5cm is pretty tight for bullets, this will not work in coros, but would make sense for tree strips or matrix. 8-10cm more common. 21 cents is pretty normal, but what chip design is it? WS2811 resistor? Like Kate...

At risk of oversimplifying... the relative efficiency (as a fraction of volts presented that are in turn presented to LEDs (of an average of 3V forward voltage), and not counting for inefficiencies in the PSU or the LEDs conversion of electricity into light, and not counting power used by the...