JST connectors Yes or No

Discussion in 'Computers, Cabling & Other Miscellaneous Hardware' started by scamper, Jun 22, 2017.

?

Do you use the standard JST connectors

Poll closed Jun 29, 2017.
  1. Yes

    3 vote(s)
    15.8%
  2. No

    15 vote(s)
    78.9%
  3. Only out of the weather

    1 vote(s)
    5.3%
  1. scamper

    scamper Senior Elf

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    I have for a long time cut the standard JST connectors off all of my led strings and replaced them with waterproof connectors. But have just put 10 strings into a pixels matrix, I have just plugged them all in and wired up power injection.
    I plan on replacing them later, but for testing it is just easier.
    What is everyone's opinion and/or experience?
    Do you replace them? Or use them? and how well do they last?
     
  2. djgra79

    djgra79 Senior Elf

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    Replace with waterproof pigtails
     
  3. ShellNZ

    ShellNZ Senior Elf

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    I was actually going to use them use them but attach the waterproof pigtails onto the ends of the JS (cut off the little plug), however, the wiring colors were all over the place e.g would have to change colors twice, from JST ---> pigtail ---> 4-core cable. I was going to do it just to the 20cm pigtail being too heavy on the strips. I have instead reverted back to the pigtails, but instead of cutting my normal 1" outer sheath I will be cutting back about 4" of sheath and ziptying it to the conduit/strip in a way thats putting a lot less stress/weight on the strip.
     
  4. marmalade

    marmalade cats & pixels

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    i kept the jst's when joining strips together, and just used heatshrink over them to weatherproof. Worked just fine outside. The deciding factor was if I needed to unplug anything for installation, debugging and eventually storage afterwards, in which case pigtails were used on those connections.
     
  5. OP
    OP
    scamper

    scamper Senior Elf

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    That may be an idea, I have already replaced the end one that will run to the controller, and I power inject at the end of every string ( I don't even run power from the controller, just data) So for now I may heatshrink and see how it turns out. This prop will be under the eves against the wall.
    If I get time after testing, I will see how I go, i may just cut them and solder them all together.
     
  6. cdjazman

    cdjazman Full Time Elf

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    For 90% of my elements I just order the length I need from Ray (ie. 2.5mtr 2811 strip) with the pigtails done. It is only another 0.50c - $1 per item.

    Saves me time and also they do a far better job than I do.:):):):):)

    Oh and for the other 10% i cut the JST off and put a pigtail on.
     
  7. fasteddy

    fasteddy I have C.L.A.P Global Moderator Generous Elf

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    If the JST connectors are located in an area that wont get direct rain on them and you don't live right on the coast then these would be OK to use, but if they can get wet or you live in a corrosive environment like next to the coast then the waterproof connectors would be the best choice.
     
  8. diyer

    diyer Full Time Elf Generous Elf

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    As an alternative to pigtails I've used these waterproof 'automotve / marine' connectors found on eBay with no issues.


    IMG_0268.PNG IMG_0267.PNG IMG_0269.PNG
     
  9. foodi

    foodi New Elf

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    EACH TO THERE OWN i use only jst even when i order from ray i get jst on all my pixels .also they are lighter than pigtails as for waterproofing i use clear heat shrink tubing takes a little extra time but thats my way .
     
  10. algerdes

    algerdes Al Gerdes

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    I use JST connectors while building props. If I have 50 count strings, and need 150 on a prop, I'll shrink wrap the JST connectors at 50-51 and 100-101. The connection to and from the prop is a waterproof pigtail. Essentially saying that if we disconnect it, it is waterproof. If it stays, instead of soldering strings together, we shrink wrap with adhesive lining.
     
  11. fasteddy

    fasteddy I have C.L.A.P Global Moderator Generous Elf

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    My question to the guys that use the JST connectors outside with only heat shrink, do you find that water still gets in because you are heat shrinking a flat cable which normally doesn't give a great seal. Do you also use non corrosive neutral cure silicone to ensure a good seal
     
  12. marmalade

    marmalade cats & pixels

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    a little trick to get better heatshrink seals over cables, it to use a smaller dia piece of heatshrink (sometimes much smaller) and then stretch it out using some thin long nose pliers. This gives up to a 4:1 shrink ratio.

    Of course shrink works best on wire/cable that is rigid enough not to collapse/deform, if that is the case (as in flat ribbon) a little silicone under the ends of the shrink before hitting it with the heatgun will ensure a waterproof seal (use a 10ml syringe filled with silicone for ease of application). Alternatively there are flowable silicones which would work just as well.

    Most people would hopefully know to use neutral cure wherever possible, and it's normally the same price as the acid cure sealants used in tiles/bathrooms.

    Perhaps a 101 subsection could be be added to your exceptional and widely revered Christmas Lighting Manual Eddy!
     
  13. diyer

    diyer Full Time Elf Generous Elf

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    If I want to heat shrink something chunky, in the past I have used two sizes of heat shrink, a large one to cover the bulky part and a smaller glue lined tube either end once the large one has shrunk.
     
  14. ComPeter

    ComPeter New Elf

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    Has anyone used Anderson Plugs?
     
  15. marmalade

    marmalade cats & pixels

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    yes, have them on all my boxes, they are great!
     

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