New Central Command.

[cdjazman]

I have to give a shout out to Roosta (Nic) for the work he put together on his thread below;

https://auschristmaslighting.com/threads/8510/

After reading through and asking Nic heaps of questions I have decided to setup a "Central Command" for my display for this year.

I have started planning out today and thought I would keep a running log of progress.

Today was mainly planning and layout config.



For my setup I use the Pixlite16 Long Range so have receivers in the yard for data.

The power supplies will have positive connected to 8 way fuse box from Supercheap (containing 30amp fuses)
**Not the $10 one they have on the website - $19 in store.



The negative will be run to a 16-Way 100A Brass Distribution Bar sourced from Jaycar.
https://www.jaycar.com.au/16-way-100a-brass-distribution-bar/p/SZ2004

From the fuse box and busbar I have the wiring run to a 2 wire pigtail. I plan to have pigtails for all elements there so I can unplug power injection leads in the "off-season"

For the wire I have used a power lead that I have stripped and used brown for positive and blue for negative. I am thinking of using power lead for all my injection runs so keeping it color coded could help down the track. And I know what I have plugged in where......

Also have 5 port switch and Raspberry Pi to mount as well.

Happy for any thoughts - suggestions - corrections - ideas - etc......[/attach]

 

[Roosta]

Looking good mate..


Just remember to make sure your output cable is large enough to handle the current and lengths otherwise you will suffer unnecessary voltage drop or worse, melting cables!

 

[David_AVD]

Yes, you'll need much larger cabling from the power supplies to the fuse block and negative block than shown in the picture. Work on about 1sq mm of copper per 10 Amps of capacity as a rough guide.

 

[scamper]

Just a thought, but I would get some more fuse blocks and as the power supplies have 3 output terminals, then use them and run them through a fuse each. So a 30 amp supply run through 3 x 10 amp fuses (or whatever works best). That way you are not needing massive cables and if you get a problem that blows a fuse it is going to only take out a small section of your display. Also if you had a problem that took out a 30amp fuse, it is going to melt wires unless as David said, you have MUCH larger cables.

 

[cdjazman]

Thanks for the feedback guys.

I have a mate (sparky) that said he has "plenty" of 4mm2 twin core cable that I can have. Going to grab some and pick his brain while I am at it.

 

[cdjazman]

Went and caught up with mate to day and got some new cable to use.

4mm2 twin with earth. Going to use it for all power and 12v out.

Also he has set me up with 4 x 20a circuit breakers. Also some brass bars for earth and neutral.

I will be getting another fuse box to spread the load.

 

[cdjazman]

So it is starting to take shape.

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[David_AVD]

What are the 20A breakers for and where does this whole setup get its power from?

 

[cdjazman]

What are the 20A breakers for and where does this whole setup get its power from?

The breakers will be supplying power.

The main power will run through them from behind.

I have a sparky putting in a single circuit for just this to main board.

Both sides will have 4 power supplies "daisy chained" together.

Then all have common earth and neutral connection.

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[David_AVD]

Seems odd to have 4 x 20A breakers on the end of a cable that also has a 20A breaker at the switchboard end. Unless the feed is 4mm or larger with a 32A breaker?

 

[cdjazman]

Seems odd to have 4 x 20A breakers on the end of a cable that also has a 20A breaker at the switchboard end. Unless the feed is 4mm or larger with a 32A breaker?

For that part of it I am going by what my sparky mate has helped me with. He did say it was overkill but he is a commercial electrician. Maybe that explains it.

I explained to home what I was doing and he did me a drawing and a box of stuff and I am having a crack at putting it all together.

Do you have a differing opinion? Very happy for any and all input.

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[David_AVD]

The reason I ask is that if something draws enough current to trip one of the 20A breakers on your "central command", it's likely that a 20A breaker in your main switchboard will also trip.

This makes the multiple 20A breakers in your box somewhat redundant and confusing. If the breakers in your box were 10A that would make sense as one of those tripping should leave the 20A breaker in the switchboard untripped.

 

[cdjazman]

Ok I understand. As you are probably aware I am not an electrician. Hehe.

I will talk to my mate and see what he was doing with the new circuit he is putting in.

Maybe he is putting a 32A like you said at the switchboard.

Thanks for the feedback.

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[lytnin]

Question ...


I get why the earths are connected through a bus bar. But why the Neutrals as well? Shouldn't they have the same insulation as the active's?


Or do you have a cover to go over that bar?

 

[scamper]

Just on the breakers...
Is this hardwired to the power? or does it go through a power point?
If the later, the breakers are definitely of no use as a standard power point / cord is only rated at 10amps.
Also, another thing to think about is turning all of those power supplies on at once could possibly trip your main breaker with the inrush current alone, so it may be worthwhile remembering to flip 1 at a time at switch on.


edit... By the way, in no way is anyone here having a go at you, they are just questions or opinions from our many mistakes in the past :