Storage for Controller board

Bryan H

Bryan
Joined
Feb 15, 2017
Messages
181
Location
Tamworth
Hi Guys,

I am not a shooter but one of my work colleagues is and put me onto these based in Canberra and the USA.
It cost me $60 for 2 of these including $11 for postage. They are cheaper then the boxes I use for the falcon controllers last year and will set these up as a new home for my 2 falcon boards....

They didn't have any in Australia, so they imported these from USA for me at no additional cost and took 2 weeks from order to my front door.

I measured them to be 360 x 380 x 176 mms
https://www.brownells.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&path=10005_10045&product_id=38561
 

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ElSalZi

Full time elf
Joined
Dec 24, 2017
Messages
175
Location
Hedland WA
Hi Guys,

I am not a shooter but one of my work colleagues is and put me onto these based in Canberra and the USA.
It cost me $60 for 2 of these including $11 for postage. They are cheaper then the boxes I use for the falcon controllers last year and will set these up as a new home for my 2 falcon boards....

They didn't have any in Australia, so they imported these from USA for me at no additional cost and took 2 weeks from order to my front door.

I measured them to be 360 x 380 x 176 mms
https://www.brownells.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&path=10005_10045&product_id=38561
Theres been number of mentions of these boxes on different threads. How do they compare the the CG-1500 (other than being more cost effective)?
Stronger?
Harder?
More water/dust proof?

They seem slightly larger than the CG-1500, if I convert the Inches correctly..

I know I will eventually need at least 4 enclosures, so I'm looking around....
 

Bryan H

Bryan
Joined
Feb 15, 2017
Messages
181
Location
Tamworth
I think they are larger, more cost effective then the Cg-1500.. I have other boxes similar to the 1500. The website has the measurements in inches..
 

darylc

404 darylc not found
Joined
Dec 8, 2012
Messages
1,146
cg-1500 aren't waterproof - they have no seal as far as I know.
 
Joined
Aug 23, 2015
Messages
642
Location
sheidow park
Those ammo boxes, i fit f16v3 + expansion + 4 - Mean well rsp-320-5's + 2 - f8 distro's (all fully populated) with a bit of breathing room around.

i wish Brownell's would expand the MTM range they can source a bit more, for the smaller ones that are used for receiver boxes etc... but it is awesome they carry any really. before i went to Brownell's i went to a local gun shop, and they charged me $54 each, and i argued them down to $45 each, so Brownell's are a winner.
 

logandc99

Dedicated elf
Joined
Jul 13, 2012
Messages
1,153
How are people securing the boards and power supplies in these boxes that don’t have screw holes for mounting plates etc?
 

ElSalZi

Full time elf
Joined
Dec 24, 2017
Messages
175
Location
Hedland WA
I found these at our local Bunnings wharehouse and going to try mounting board and power supplies.
Said to be weatherproof and has a rubber seal.
https://www.bunnings.co.nz/craftright-tool-safe-case-465x360x175mm_p05810252
I like these, but for other things! Been looking for a cost effective ones of this type for a while now. Thank you.
Those ammo boxes, i fit f16v3 + expansion + 4 - Mean well rsp-320-5's + 2 - f8 distro's (all fully populated) with a bit of breathing room around.

i wish Brownell's would expand the MTM range they can source a bit more, for the smaller ones that are used for receiver boxes etc... but it is awesome they carry any really. before i went to Brownell's i went to a local gun shop, and they charged me $54 each, and i argued them down to $45 each, so Brownell's are a winner.

I like these as well - especially for the Christmas gear! But, like logandc99...
How are people securing the boards and power supplies in these boxes that don’t have screw holes for mounting plates etc?
If those that use these could share their method of securing the controllers, PSUs & anything else, I would greatly appreciate it!

Unfortunately we don't (yet) have a 3D printer...
 
Joined
Aug 23, 2015
Messages
642
Location
sheidow park
If you are mounting them horizontally (ie sitting flat on the ground) you don't need to secure the mounting plate. I don't have a photo, but I can try to explain... as the box is at the bottom of a huge box covered in cables sorry...

For the mounting plate I used something called Alum Composite... and cut it to size with a really sharp knife. or alternatively you could use a large plastic cutting board, and trim it to size. the actual boards (f16v3 and f8's) are on nylon standoffs, secured by nylon bolts.

The power supplies are staggered (ie top ones are about 50mm back from the bottom ones, so not to obscure any vents. and about 50-75mm vertically above, joined together with short lengths of DIN rail and m4x8mm bolts (alternatively, any strip of thin aluminium/steel or left over plastic strips from the cutting-board mentioned previously, holes to be drilled.)

I also installed 60mm fan vents on either end, one with a small fan powered by the fan connector on the f16v3.
link https://www.switchesplus.com.au/det...ey-ABS-Fits-all-Hi-Box-products?r=accessories

The top layer is a clear piece of polycarbonate, but you could use any firm board really. I can't remember the dimensions, but i remember I had to re-cut due to some measuring mishap... make sure there is enough room around the top layer to feed pigtails/cables through (or cut holes and make sure no sharp edges)

I cut holes above where the fans were, but not sure if that is required, as the panel is a few cm above the supplies.

The top layer is suspended by getting threaded rod, matching nuts (i used lock nuts, but its up to you) and i put some irrigation hose around the threaded rod, just to pretty it up... and drill matching holes into the base you made earlier. Thread the rod through the bottom, leaving enough room for 1 nut and a matching washer you attach. then do up a nut on the long side of the threaded rod. Do a test fit, by doing up another nut on the log side, but allow enough room to place another nut, washer, upper layer and another washer and nut... adjust the height to what you feel is best. then cut the tube to fit between the upper level and lower - I find the pipe fits nicely over the nuts, so they can be neatened up aesthetically.

Then cables need to get out the box... for single cables out (such as 240v power) i use either pg7 or pg9 cable glands, PG9 is larger. For outputs, I got larger cable glands... I think they were 32mm ones? and had 4 outputs going out each gland, and also 4 x 4 outs for the power distro. For the ethernet in/out i got some of these.
link https://www.aliexpress.com/item/RJ4...32732948688.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.oUELkD

Lots of different ones out there.

I borrowed ideas from Clyde Lindsay and Ricky Cloutier's awesome builds... its all a bit of run :)
 
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