Recent content by battle79

Came across these the other day, can't speak to quality, but looks like a good possibility. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009528822110.html https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009437013871.html Cheers, Rowan

I use a WCM118 Soldering Station from rockby.com.au, Terrible website, odd little store, loved it so much I have one in the shed and one in the work car for bigger jobs.

The Ray Wu and x connect (and likely Paul Z, never had any) connectors are surprisingly waterproof for a cheap connector. I assumed when I started this hobby that cheaper connector could be found if I was willing to solder/terminate them myself. That turned out not to be true at all. Anything...

I would get whatever Omada wifi access point is suitable for outdoors and just put it at the yellow x with a cable back to your switch in the mancave. I believe all Omada access points will do roaming, but that is the keyword that you need to make sure of. Roaming will hand off from your...

Love all the different use cases people come up with. For all the similarities, we all often run very different things.

I could, and it's less than 10mtrs between them. But the way the cables are run that would be about 40mtrs of cable and I already have the network cable waiting for me. Plus, perfect excuse to get another different type of controller. I really am a glutton for punishment. I think I have one of...

So my main show Player is clear on the other side of the yard, but I already have ethernet at the prop location. IE can't run button wire from Pi to prop. Therefore, I'm adding a Baldrick input1 to run the buttons as well as my existing Advatek Pixlite 4 (had forgotten I had it) to run the...

WLED doesn't seem to have support for TLS3001. I found a Pixlite 4 in my box of random controllers, so I think I'll be using that and a pi zero with some resistors to run a button. That will keep it all in the one control box somewhat stand alone. (Still connected to network so I can fiddle...

So I have lots of TLS3001 12 bit pixels that I thought would be great to use for my selfie wings as the colors will (should?) look better than standard pixels. Only problem is all the newer F-prop, Genius "in and out" pi hat, even the baldrick, have all moved to only 3 wire pixel outputs...

How interesting, the Symes family owned the bakery and an orchard in Harcourt. Two brothers and their families. More recent generation ran sheep and wheat in pyramid hill. I have to ask my mum about it. Hope your mum recovers quickly.

Car is packed with all sorts of bits and bobs to hopefully rehome. Can't wait to spend an entire day immersed in XMAS lights. Rowan

What an interesting project. Is it specifically for specific event or even Halloween? Or are they looking for permanent year-round installation? Small world Alan, I would bet money that my mum is one of the people in that photo. She grew up in Eaglehawk and loves to visit cemetery and discover...

Parkvalley Drive Lights, Chirnside Park

If you test between the pos wire at the start of the string and at the end you should get resistance. Also, the negative should also give you a really low resistance. Between the pos and negative should give a higher resistance that should be repeatable with all props that are the same pixel...

Sounds to me like you may have a faulty PSU. The voltage dropping (sagging) that much, is a sign that either one of you props has a fault in a pixel with a low resistance between pos and neg, or the power supply is on the way out. You can test for the first one with a multimeter, especially if...