Home network. I was going to try running both the Pi and WT32 over WiFi, and if that fails try and figure out how to connect them with a CAT5/6 cable. The location of the box has a good signal to a mesh hub in the house, so I’m hoping the antenna is decent and the lag is minimal.
Thought about...
I have both 12v and 5V pixels, probably only going to run the 5V ones this year. For some reason, buying a 5V PSU never crossed my mind, I suppose I can spend another $30 on this project that I have already spent too much on lol.
Number of lights is about 366 for my current plan of a setup, but...
That is all I want to know (Other improvement suggestions welcome of course).
I’ve had my power supply and controller (pi4) in a non-waterproof box for my initial testing and buying-more-stuff phase, but hoping to maybe have a small show this year, which means everything needs to be outside and...
Gotcha. Do you think reinstalling WLED and setting it up standalone on a different static IP might do something or do you have any other ideas that I would try?
If there is a way to test the lights to see if they can still accept data please let me know
Unless there is a way to do it without a WLED / FPP controller, no. The ESP32 and Pi 4b are the only two controllers I have.
With the test mode in FPP, I tried all the options in the dropdown (All channels, all local channels, WLED_1, etc), no change.
WiFi right now, wanted to make sure it...
No, I have 50 there now. Have it set to 500 as that was what was there before. It did not make a difference when it was working, but changed it, unfortunately no effect.
Changing those settings does bring back this screen on WLED:
But the lights don't do anything even when FPP is in test...
Only when turning off, and only when connected to the WLED controller.
To recap (It's been a confusing topic lol):
When lights are connected to FPP / Raspberry Pi 4b, they don't turn on at all. Not when plugged in, not when testing mode is on, not when power is cut. Does not matter if WLED...
Got it down to between .5 and 2. I also don't think the multimeter I have is the most accurate thing in the world, it was really cheap and does not feel high-quality.
Also, the flash that I recorded and posted above only happens if the pixels are connected to the WLED controller. If they are...
I do. Put the multimeter in resistance mode and tested ground between the ESP and the PSU, Pi and PSU, ESP and Pi, Pixel and PSU, Pixel and ESP, etc..., all had between 1-14 ohms resistance.
I also tried adding a second string (100 pixels total) and have power at both ends, data from ESP on...
Yes. The PI connectors (That the fuse is on) has both the 12v line and a ground line going to the PSU. The ESP is powered via USB on my laptop, the black wire on the terminal block is a ground.
Although one of the grounding circuits could be broken, I will add another ground wire from the ESP...
I just went to turn the lights off after sending that last post, and they lit up as I disconnected the power. I wanted to try and get a video of it, so here is the power setup:
Smart plug with a physical power button is connected to the 12v power supply. I am pressing the button on the smart...
Really hard to get good pictures, but let me know if you have questions:
Setup:
The PI lines (Individual red and blue cable) is connected to a 4A fuse going to 12v power source. Fuse is not broken, and power is working, as testing the other end of the strip with a multimeter shows 12v...
Thought of that, tried two different strings, neither works. I did get one string to light up all white (all pixels) as I was messing with the wires once, so I know that string does not have broken wires.
Both strings were also working perfectly fine yesterday, so I have no clue what happened.