That's the way. Even if it is marked with the little paper tag (check both ends) or in the Ali listing, not a bad idea. Then, after you confirm it, tape that marked one to the top of the reel for safekeeping... future you will thank you.
Every rule of thumb I know of has some documented...
Looks like the issue in the thread is solved, but for anyone else coming along (with the problem I expected based on the title), there are in fact two editions of the GE Flake A. You can tell them apart quickly by looking for the presence or absence of the center node. The center node is an...
In the ones I have dissected, the V+ and V- conductors go straight past all the pixels ... so the solder joint doesn't take the strain directly. Even for the very tiny ones. There are breaks in the data line (except for the addressed pixels).
The Baldrick Switchy is a legit option. You would just use ethernet to drive it, so plug the Switchy into the network also. Your player would send the data to both the K8-B and the Switchy. (If the K8 is your player also, it can send network packets to Switchy.)
The other option I offer up...
Agree, when I did the frame for the spooky tree, or other cases where "winging it" was the only option, the manual conduit bender was a good choice. (Those also are pretty well marked for 90 degrees or other common angles.) If I wanted to make 28 even semicircular walk-through arches, I'd go...
Yes, you might want 2.5cm spacing on the matrix, but you can use 5cm-spaced pixels and double the string back on itself - "alternate nodes" style... the longer length gives more flexibility to drop to the next row, easier splice, and such. This is what I did for the mini trees and spider web...
I see you have a red box around this already, but double-check your spacing... 5cm is pretty tight for bullets, this will not work in coros, but would make sense for tree strips or matrix. 8-10cm more common. 21 cents is pretty normal, but what chip design is it? WS2811 resistor?
Like Kate...
At risk of oversimplifying... the relative efficiency (as a fraction of volts presented that are in turn presented to LEDs (of an average of 3V forward voltage), and not counting for inefficiencies in the PSU or the LEDs conversion of electricity into light, and not counting power used by the...
I have the same recollection... First run a cable fishing tape through the PEX. Then attach to the female xConnect (once relieved of its ring). Pull the strip (or seeds I suppose) through. Reattach ring if desired (or just cut it off and seal in the tube).
2m strip tube? This is a one-person...
The user manual is super unhelpful on this ... quite expected though since each situation is different and the manufacturer can't possibly try them all. Just says (see: https://www.meanwell.com/Upload/PDF/Enclosed_Type_EN.pdf):
Those spec sheets, in turn, say hardly anything about how the...
The original post leaves out a lot of the nuance on this topic, as it neglects to mention the orientation of the enclosure the PSU is installed in, which determines the final operating orientation of the PSU.
Obviously, if you mount the PSU incorrectly, the hamster wheel efficiency is far less...
1200 lights ... should be split up a bit. This will have a lot to do with what's easiest. If you put it together so it just goes bottom to top, then you'd need one port per string, but if you have it so that the data can travel up one string and down the next, or up every other hole and then...
You can do 750 nodes on a port of the Baldrick, so 4x150 = 600 pixels would work on a single port. But, you can use more than one port, and I'd recommend using more than one port if it's easier for you. 4 on one, each separate ports, 2 x 2, lots of good choices.