Recent content by silver_ice

To answer your question about Baldricks running a MT, I ran 28 strands @ 150 this year on 7 ports (so 600 pix per channel, 12v strands) and then used the 8th to run the smalll 200pix star. Ran off 2 x 350w power supplies and just power balanced the MT strings (so tee'd off at the first string...

Hello I added some stuff to my F3D drop box - https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/bbq9cg5068rmn224huuwu/ADm9cbAJBLrKtubPlLz6eno?rlkey=q1f42kax37oy0pia7a8qc0ulb&st=57w7pgbu&dl=0 - 99 Node Candy Canes (just null pixel the end node for your 100strings and set it up as a 3x33 matrix, works great...

As above 8mm is plenty and especially if you consider the grain of the plastic and work with it, can do great stuff.

I put some non-waterproof/non-tubed lengths into some aussieduct, snapped on the lid and it works well as weather proofing and diffusing. Would need some silicon along the join for proper waterproofing but yeh also a way to go.

Yeh, I've do 24V for that, most joinery places will sell the setup, or you can just the same stuff from Ali cheaper...and just grab one of the small 240v transformers that most lighting sites sell for this - some will do WS2811 if that's what is desired.

So, maybe helpful, probably not - more an anecdote, I've bought about 150 metres of 12V WS2811 led strip from Xnbada BST LIGHTING Store on Ali last year, and had a power injected 60 metre run on the roof and 40 metre on the verandah posts... in Central West NSW and we had something like 300mm of...

Based on your xlights screenshot you have defined 0 channels in there - is it auto sized? turn that off and just specify the 16 channel size manually

Hah I was searching for this post last year and couldnt find it, so I ended up making my own aussie duct clips , but for the 25mm duct. STL and F3D file is in my Xmas dropbox - https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/bbq9cg5068rmn224huuwu/h?rlkey=syuekv7dn7glfbfvnsy4hxno3&dl=0

This is a neat idea and scales nicely if you batch them up. That said, grab yourself a tube of something from Soudal (I use the T-Rex Grip or something) - a better adhesive than hotglue should have you sorted, I dont have an issue with glued in magnets in the outback over summer

Ok sorry for the delay - i have added some DXF's of the same. the "Pixel" versions are the sketches with the drilling pattern but I also included the outline versions which are just the raw sketch before adding drill holes etc, as both might be useful.

Fusion personal will sort ya out, yes - but its a fair point and I'll do it anyway, since folks may wanna project or do a CAM setup for laser cutting or whatever, so it will be good to have the DXF's anyways

Yup! I can, I just need to do some projecting to get everything back to a 2D plane - gimme a day or so.

I like the recess where the lights live on these.....same with ply though, have to paint it, 100%. My problem was 3 - 7mm ply or MDF sucked when the weight got too much - Bunnos had $50 sheets of 12mm ply and its holding up perfectly, but still needed to paint

Yep, very nice.... on some of my newer drawings, ive started to just engrave the wiring layout - another reason thickish ply works well.

Heya Just thought I'd share these in case anyone else wanted to do some CNC props - Dropbox In here I've got a Singing Santa face and xmodel file to go with it, a star for 200 pixels, Hello Kitty (no model, I just did it for my daughter and lit it up statically), and some small spinners for...