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101 display basics
Gilbert Engineering Snowflake XLS450 Questions
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[QUOTE="merryoncherry, post: 127004, member: 37249"] First, best idea is to try it. Connect a bunch of your pixels to a controller port and find out. Distance between pixels and the controller does matter. So does the type of controller. Second best idea, if you want to predict what will happen, is watch someone like Ni Family lights which has studied it carefully. [URL unfurl="true"]https://m.youtube.com/user/sjn6a98[/URL] Worst option is to let me guess for you... my best guess is you can do all 450 at 30% because: In my experiments, I always use 100% white. I find 200 pixels 5-10m from the controller is completely fine, uses about 3A out of 5. (No matter how many pixels you add, you can't blow a fuse because they just can't pull enough current through that much small wire.) 300 pixels 5-10m from the controller are noticeably dimmer at 100% than they could be. This improves a lot if you plug the far end of the string back into a T at the beginning. Close to the controller, this will use all 5A. You are saying you'll stay at 30% bright, so I expect you will be able to do far more, maybe as much as 2x as many. But have a Plan B if you don't try it first... Know what you will do in the field if things don't go as expected. Resistor pixels are very forgiving, so "just live with it" is an option. "Just drop the brightness" is another. For flickering pixels, the fix generally comes down to having some data amps, just screw one in the line in the right place. For dim, or slightly cyan pixels, the voltage is low, so have injection tees handy (I use 3M-3M-3F tees with the data pin pulled out of the center, so you can loop the string and plug it back into itself, or into any free port on the same supply and add power), and spare extensions. [/QUOTE]
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