Ɠαяєтн
Mae gen i C.L.A.P ei heintus iawn
Got my Christmas present as well, thanks Alan.
Closed ACL Strobe Mk 2 bulk buy - ends 12 September 2014
- Thread starter AAH
- Start date
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dougd
Full time elf
Awesome news Bird.
Cant believe we haven't seen any video yet, what are ya'll doing working on your displays or something.
Cant believe we haven't seen any video yet, what are ya'll doing working on your displays or something.
Bird
LOR user
tmcteer said:Bird,
A couple of pics would keep us going a few more days......
Tom
Interesting concept. The C9 covers were loose acting as packing peanuts for the LED's and sleeves.
I have to count out the LED's and we should be good to go.
nzlongfellow
Dennis from NZ
Got my Christmas present, thanks Alan.
Bird
LOR user
North American shipping update.
-----------------------------------------------------
$13 bdt
$19 roterhead
$13 tlh
$13 tmcteer
Should have received tracking numbers from PayPal last night or this morning
----------------------------------------------------
$14 drlucas
$21 DrNeutron
$13 arw01
$13 dougd
$13 rogerdc46
Will PM tracking numbers to you today
-------------------------------------------------------
$13 imbluenote
$13 KenL
$13 loveroflife96
$13 Skunberg
-----------------------------------------------------
$13 bdt
$19 roterhead
$13 tlh
$13 tmcteer
Should have received tracking numbers from PayPal last night or this morning
----------------------------------------------------
$14 drlucas
$21 DrNeutron
$13 arw01
$13 dougd
$13 rogerdc46
Will PM tracking numbers to you today
-------------------------------------------------------
$13 imbluenote
$13 KenL
$13 loveroflife96
$13 Skunberg
Hi all,
I did'nt buy any, but i soldered 48 of them up for ron.
Out of 48 of them 46 worked (i made up a test jig)
has anyone experienced this yet?
Is there any chance of the firmware (or hex code)
so i could try an reflash them (if the pickit3 see's the ic that is)
thanks.
Ps. for the 46 that worked.. there super bright, (just dont look into them)
I did'nt buy any, but i soldered 48 of them up for ron.
Out of 48 of them 46 worked (i made up a test jig)
has anyone experienced this yet?
Is there any chance of the firmware (or hex code)
so i could try an reflash them (if the pickit3 see's the ic that is)
thanks.
Ps. for the 46 that worked.. there super bright, (just dont look into them)
nzlongfellow
Dennis from NZ
smartalec said:Hi all,
I did'nt buy any, but i soldered 48 of them up for ron.
Out of 48 of them 46 worked (i made up a test jig)
has anyone experienced this yet?
Is there any chance of the firmware (or hex code)
so i could try an reflash them (if the pickit3 see's the ic that is)
thanks.
Ps. for the 46 that worked.. there super bright, (just dont look into them)
Just getting into mine today.
Any pics of your test rig........
nzlongfellow said:
i just used a breadboard with header pins connected to the 5v.
so easy
nzlongfellow
Dennis from NZ
1st 48 done and tested.
2 x bad strobes.
1 x chip board that produces smoke.
1 x assembly strobe is constant ON - no does do the flashy thing.
1 x chip assembly dead.
Any of the above could be my first attempt at circuit board assembly since I was 9ish and making Crystal sets.....who remembers then? ??? ? 8)
2 x bad strobes.
1 x chip board that produces smoke.
1 x assembly strobe is constant ON - no does do the flashy thing.
1 x chip assembly dead.
Any of the above could be my first attempt at circuit board assembly since I was 9ish and making Crystal sets.....who remembers then? ??? ? 8)
- Thread starter
- #118
I remember making a crystal set
Because of the clearance between solder joints and components it is pretty much an absolute must that you should check your solder joints with a magnifying glass. I'd recommend checking after the resistors and leds have been fitted and then a second check after the wires are fitted.
There are a couple of points where the solder joint you need to solder up and the adjacent bit of copper/component will let out the magic smoke if they meet in anger. Having the power connected around the wrong way will let out the magic smoke too as I know from 1 of the proto boards I knocked up.
Because of the clearance between solder joints and components it is pretty much an absolute must that you should check your solder joints with a magnifying glass. I'd recommend checking after the resistors and leds have been fitted and then a second check after the wires are fitted.
There are a couple of points where the solder joint you need to solder up and the adjacent bit of copper/component will let out the magic smoke if they meet in anger. Having the power connected around the wrong way will let out the magic smoke too as I know from 1 of the proto boards I knocked up.
nzlongfellow said:
nzlongfellow
Dennis from NZ
How I intend to make mine up.
Procedure
1 - Tested assembly.
2 - Inserted assembly into Pixel tube
3 - Hot Glued tube into outer casing
4 - Used glued 12 x 3 heat shrink. 12mm fits snug over casing and shrinks down to 3mm wires.
Take care with shrinking around casing as it can pull off if too aggressive with heat.
Procedure
1 - Tested assembly.
2 - Inserted assembly into Pixel tube
3 - Hot Glued tube into outer casing
4 - Used glued 12 x 3 heat shrink. 12mm fits snug over casing and shrinks down to 3mm wires.
Take care with shrinking around casing as it can pull off if too aggressive with heat.
Attachments
nzlongfellow
Dennis from NZ
Alan, I can test OK on straight 5V DC supply.
When I connect to a Ray Wu 27 Channel DMX controller and have 4.72V outlet supply it will not fire......... ???
Are they critical for 5VDC?
What is the voltage range?
When I connect to a Ray Wu 27 Channel DMX controller and have 4.72V outlet supply it will not fire......... ???
Are they critical for 5VDC?
What is the voltage range?
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