C9 pixel Strings Now Available
- Thread starter fasteddy
- Start date
How water proof are they tho
zman
Full time elf
These look interesting, but look difficult to mount or display without having a more significant base to clip somehow.
dmoore
Senior elf
zman said:
I'm with you - it seems while they have the diffusion issue fixed, they didn't give much thought to the mounting. Of course it's great that RGB has so many different form factors that one of them usually meets the requirement.
chrisl1976
Apprentice elf
You know, I bet you could get some custom 12" spacing on these for around $1 total for the node. Might be a great alternative to standard retrofit C9 LED bulbs for the same price, but with the added color variation. I am curious to see the light output difference. Retrofit are 5 led bulbs.
shiner
New elf
Has anyone actually ordered these? I am considering ordering these with 12 inch spacing to replace existing c9 LED strings.
Any experiences you could share would be appreciated!
Any experiences you could share would be appreciated!
mschell
Full time elf
chris_backus said:
My question is still - how are you going to mount these when replacing the C9's? There is no easy way to mount these on anything, except if you're using some type of clip that would accept the base of this bulb, which is very different from a normal C9.
shiner
New elf
I tested these this weekend and was happy with the results.
C9 pixel vs c9 LED Retro
I will be applying silicone between the wires behind the node just to ensure it is sealed, and I will be fixing the c9 cover near the end of the node. When I received them, the node was jammed all the way into the cover and I do not like the look. If you back it out, I think it looks like other C9 LED solutions.
As for mounting, I use PVC frames built to size for each of my windows. These zip tie easily onto that frame. For my brick, I plan to use hot glue like I did with the traditional C9 base or a pvc pole.
C9 pixel vs c9 LED Retro
I will be applying silicone between the wires behind the node just to ensure it is sealed, and I will be fixing the c9 cover near the end of the node. When I received them, the node was jammed all the way into the cover and I do not like the look. If you back it out, I think it looks like other C9 LED solutions.
As for mounting, I use PVC frames built to size for each of my windows. These zip tie easily onto that frame. For my brick, I plan to use hot glue like I did with the traditional C9 base or a pvc pole.
mschell
Full time elf
The YouTube label says C9 vs C9pixel. So which are which in the video?
The column on the right looks a little brighter than the left, but it could be the placement of the camera. Or are the C9's in the small box between the columns?
The column on the right looks a little brighter than the left, but it could be the placement of the camera. Or are the C9's in the small box between the columns?
shiner
New elf
Sorry for not making that clear. The small square in the center middle is the Retro-sun warm white C9 LEDs. I wanted to compare for light dispersion and diffusion relative to the covers and how they were positioned on the pixel node.
The frame on the right has the lights as delivered from Ray Wu. This has the pixel node is rammed all the way into C9 cover. This creates a very bright tip and the rest of the C9 cover essentially remains black. I did not care for this personally, but - in this specific application, it may be the way to go given the angle to the viewer and the height relative to the viewer position. The entry is recessed back a few feet and the viewer would not be able to see a side profile of these lights/windows but they would on other windows that are not recessed.
The frame on the left has the covers pulled out a bit on the node - roughly 1/4" of the node sticking out of the cover. Up close, this looks closer to the retro c9 because virtually the entire c9 cover is illuminated. My plan is to actually pull the node back far enough in the cover such that the LED is at the base of the C9 cover like it is in the retro c9 LED.
My theory is that this will look the best anywhere in the display because I have to assume that each one will not point directly out, and not all viewers have the luxury of looking straight onto the lights - where the right side lights look best -- direct on. By illuminating the whole cover, I think it will provide the best look at all angles. In person, you really can not tell there is a cover on the ones in the right window. You simply see the little point of light - just as you would without the cover.
The frame on the right has the lights as delivered from Ray Wu. This has the pixel node is rammed all the way into C9 cover. This creates a very bright tip and the rest of the C9 cover essentially remains black. I did not care for this personally, but - in this specific application, it may be the way to go given the angle to the viewer and the height relative to the viewer position. The entry is recessed back a few feet and the viewer would not be able to see a side profile of these lights/windows but they would on other windows that are not recessed.
The frame on the left has the covers pulled out a bit on the node - roughly 1/4" of the node sticking out of the cover. Up close, this looks closer to the retro c9 because virtually the entire c9 cover is illuminated. My plan is to actually pull the node back far enough in the cover such that the LED is at the base of the C9 cover like it is in the retro c9 LED.
My theory is that this will look the best anywhere in the display because I have to assume that each one will not point directly out, and not all viewers have the luxury of looking straight onto the lights - where the right side lights look best -- direct on. By illuminating the whole cover, I think it will provide the best look at all angles. In person, you really can not tell there is a cover on the ones in the right window. You simply see the little point of light - just as you would without the cover.
mschell
Full time elf
Thanks for the clarification and identification of the strings.
A close up of how you have these zip tied to the PVC would be most appreciated.
A close up of how you have these zip tied to the PVC would be most appreciated.
shiner
New elf
Mark,
I do not have any still shots - but this other video should show you what I did. Just one tie above and below the node:
C9 pixel chase with lsp
I do not have any still shots - but this other video should show you what I did. Just one tie above and below the node:
C9 pixel chase with lsp
mschell
Full time elf
Chris,
Thanks for the extra video. Did you see any issues with splitting the wire at the pixel? In the past, there was a question about pulling the wire apart might allow water to get into the pixel. Folks tried all kinds of things to seal it up.
I see what you mean about the pixel getting pushed up inside the C9 cover. It does make it look less like a real C9.
Thanks for the extra video. Did you see any issues with splitting the wire at the pixel? In the past, there was a question about pulling the wire apart might allow water to get into the pixel. Folks tried all kinds of things to seal it up.
I see what you mean about the pixel getting pushed up inside the C9 cover. It does make it look less like a real C9.
shiner
New elf
Given the positioning up against the PVC, I think water getting in between the wires is less likely. I also plan on placing a dab of silicone where the wires separate. I am going to glue the covers on in the extended positon, so I have to touch each one anyways.
The still image capture of the video (the preview image) actually shows the glowing tip caused by raming the cover all the way on. The light diffusion gets a lot better when you back the cover off of the tip.
The still image capture of the video (the preview image) actually shows the glowing tip caused by raming the cover all the way on. The light diffusion gets a lot better when you back the cover off of the tip.