I have a good number of 120VAC LED lights which are half wave rectified (HWR), meaning they only conduct half the AC half-sine-waves. I would like to control them (along with some incans) using a dimming controller with ACSSRs.
0) Any problem so far (in light of the considerations below)?
However I'd like to convert these to Full Wave Rectified (FWR), conducting for both half-sine-waves - as it looks better and is brighter. And I'm wondering if I can insert a FWR upstream of the controller (between it and the mains), so I don't have to create an adaptor for every channel. My thoughts follow.
1) Triacs
I think the Triacs will be OK with conducting in only one direction; and I think they will be able to turn off OK between half cycles. Right?
2) Zero Crossing
However, I'm not sure if the zero crossing detector on the controller will be OK with this. The voltage fed into the controller will not actually cross zero between half cycles (unless there's some inductive overshoot). In fact, I don't know what it will do after the LEDs stop conducting as the voltage approaches zero - and I no longer have a working scope.
So - should this work OK or not? Do different controllers have different zero crossing detection circuits which would affect the answer?
0) Any problem so far (in light of the considerations below)?
However I'd like to convert these to Full Wave Rectified (FWR), conducting for both half-sine-waves - as it looks better and is brighter. And I'm wondering if I can insert a FWR upstream of the controller (between it and the mains), so I don't have to create an adaptor for every channel. My thoughts follow.
1) Triacs
I think the Triacs will be OK with conducting in only one direction; and I think they will be able to turn off OK between half cycles. Right?
2) Zero Crossing
However, I'm not sure if the zero crossing detector on the controller will be OK with this. The voltage fed into the controller will not actually cross zero between half cycles (unless there's some inductive overshoot). In fact, I don't know what it will do after the LEDs stop conducting as the voltage approaches zero - and I no longer have a working scope.
So - should this work OK or not? Do different controllers have different zero crossing detection circuits which would affect the answer?