Gilbert Engineering Snowflake XLS450 Questions

[Baron]

Hello... 2 quick questions about the Gilbert Engineering Snowflake XLS450. This is my 2nd year doing a show and still am no expert so I thought I would get some help here. I recently purchased 3 of the large snowflakes and need some help if anyone has these...

• Question 1: Black Shark Fin - in my box of 3 snowflakes I received these. I am unsure what these are can anyone help to direct me what the purpose of these are?
• Question 2: Any recommendations on how I should run power injection, data? If my controller is no more than 10 feet away, I was thinking about running 1 data and multiple power injections. I just do not know how many pixels can run off of 1 port on an F16v3 and if that would work. Any help would be great... if you have this model I would love to know how you ran it and where you placed your power injections. Why recreate the wheel if you did it right...

Thanks for your help.

 

[LawrenceDriveLights]

Question 1
I assume the shark fins are used at the back of the prop to support it at the joins if it cut was shipping.

Question 2
A falcon F16v3 can generally run up to 1000 pixels per output (port), however you will need to power inject.
I assume you are using 12v pixels, if so and you are running at say max 50% brightness you would prob need to power inject every 200 pixels or so).

I am assuming this prop is 450 pixels, so maybe a power injection point after 200 pixels and then another power injection point at the last pixel could work.

Like most of things in this hobby, there are multiple ways to get the same outcome, these are just my suggestions and others may have some better ideas.

 

[merryoncherry]

1. They go on two of the inner 6 points, the two where the matching zip tie holes are. If your flake is split so it folds in half, these will straighten and strengthen it. (Probably it is the points where the coro is aligned with the flake radial.)

2a. If you are OK with 20FPS, Falcon will do 1024 pixels per port. If you want 40FPS, the good controllers tend to handle only 600-700 (4 universes / 680 pixels is popular). Good for you that it is only 450 pixels, so from a data perspective 1 port is going to be fine on any controller I can think of except Alphapix.

2b. Power. You might test your pixels first, without putting it in the prop! For power, I'm going to make the assumption you're using the modern wimpier resistor 12V pixels. If not, disregard, as 12V regulated and 5V are going to be different (need more injection points generally). What I would do personally is run power over the data connection to the prop, and loop the string back to an injection T on the same controller port. This will work reasonably well at full white, just a wee bit dim; if you have a power issue you just attach a second controller port to the T at the far end of the string. This leaves only ~225 pixels powered by each port, enough to get really good full white over 50' from the controller. So... why mess with a special injection wire when the controller port is a lot more versatile. But if you really do need that, then screw in an injection T in the middle of the prop where the strings connect together, and inject even more power there.

 

[merryoncherry]

I'd add that if you're just screwing together strings of 50 or 100 on the prop, you have a lot of flexibility to change your mind about power and data later.

 

[Baron]

1. They go on two of the inner 6 points, the two where the matching zip tie holes are. If your flake is split so it folds in half, these will straighten and strengthen it. (Probably it is the points where the coro is aligned with the flake radial.)

2a. If you are OK with 20FPS, Falcon will do 1024 pixels per port. If you want 40FPS, the good controllers tend to handle only 600-700 (4 universes / 680 pixels is popular). Good for you that it is only 450 pixels, so from a data perspective 1 port is going to be fine on any controller I can think of except Alphapix.

2b. Power. You might test your pixels first, without putting it in the prop! For power, I'm going to make the assumption you're using the modern wimpier resistor 12V pixels. If not, disregard, as 12V regulated and 5V are going to be different (need more injection points generally). What I would do personally is run power over the data connection to the prop, and loop the string back to an injection T on the same controller port. This will work reasonably well at full white, just a wee bit dim; if you have a power issue you just attach a second controller port to the T at the far end of the string. This leaves only ~225 pixels powered by each port, enough to get really good full white over 50' from the controller. So... why mess with a special injection wire when the controller port is a lot more versatile. But if you really do need that, then screw in an injection T in the middle of the prop where the strings connect together, and inject even more power there.

I thank you for your help.

about your statement about Power Injection. If I am running my 12 volt pixels at 30% about how many pixels can I get if I don’t Power Inject?

 

[merryoncherry]

Are they resistor pixels?

 

[Baron]

Are they resistor pixels?

Sorry. You are right.

 

[Baron]

Sorry. You are right.

They are resistor pixels

 

[merryoncherry]

First, best idea is to try it. Connect a bunch of your pixels to a controller port and find out. Distance between pixels and the controller does matter. So does the type of controller.

Second best idea, if you want to predict what will happen, is watch someone like Ni Family lights which has studied it carefully.

https://m.youtube.com/user/sjn6a98

Worst option is to let me guess for you... my best guess is you can do all 450 at 30% because:
In my experiments, I always use 100% white. I find 200 pixels 5-10m from the controller is completely fine, uses about 3A out of 5. (No matter how many pixels you add, you can't blow a fuse because they just can't pull enough current through that much small wire.)
300 pixels 5-10m from the controller are noticeably dimmer at 100% than they could be. This improves a lot if you plug the far end of the string back into a T at the beginning. Close to the controller, this will use all 5A.
You are saying you'll stay at 30% bright, so I expect you will be able to do far more, maybe as much as 2x as many.

But have a Plan B if you don't try it first... Know what you will do in the field if things don't go as expected. Resistor pixels are very forgiving, so "just live with it" is an option. "Just drop the brightness" is another.

For flickering pixels, the fix generally comes down to having some data amps, just screw one in the line in the right place.

For dim, or slightly cyan pixels, the voltage is low, so have injection tees handy (I use 3M-3M-3F tees with the data pin pulled out of the center, so you can loop the string and plug it back into itself, or into any free port on the same supply and add power), and spare extensions.

 

[orlandoal]

That star looks like it will be great once it is lit up.

I am new to Pixels this year, but have been doing AC lights for years, totally different way of doing things I agree.

I have also read and watched videos at Ni Lights and I think Steve seems to really have his head around most of this hobby. His is the quite often the first place I will look if I am having trouble grasping something.

So far I have with any amount of pixels always joined the first and last pixels together, so power is basically passing in both directions, allbeit from only one power source.

When joining pixels together, I have either used the connectors on either end or spliced them together, I also connect the two pig tails at the end and start of the strings.

I have not set any strings to run at more than 30% I am not much more than 20 feet from the road so don't require anywhere near 100%. My biggest props so far are only 167 pixels, so far all the pixels look to be the colour they are meant to be and the whites are white.

I have strung props together on the same channel totaling around 450 or so and as yet had no issues.

I have attached a picture of the back of a pumpkin to show what I mean with regards to connecting the strings. Also with props where pixels jump around in order, I like to number some of the holes and make some pointer marks to show direction. You really do not want to be popping out several hundred pixels because they are all one out.

Those joint points also give me the capacity to easily pop in a power injection lead somewhere in the string.

Hope it helps in some small way, OR maybe someone can tell me how to to it better and differently, always willing to learn something different or have someone point out a much easier solution.

 

[TerryK]

... I have attached a picture of the back of a pumpkin to show what I mean with regards to connecting the strings. Also with props where pixels jump around in order, I like to number some of the holes and make some pointer marks to show direction. You really do not want to be popping out several hundred pixels because they are all one out.

Those joint points also give me the capacity to easily pop in a power injection lead somewhere in the string.

Hope it helps in some small way, OR maybe someone can tell me how to to it better and differently, always willing to learn something different or have someone point out a much easier solution...

It all looks pretty good, I do have a few thoughts however. The JST connectors are not used very much by ACL individuals as they are rather 'light-weight' and not very immune to dust/dirt/moisture. Strings that have JST connectors typically also have a smaller gauge wire, 22 or 24 AWG generally. The JST connectors in the graphic you posted carry the positive and negative supply through the connector so the string 'taps' you have connected are mostly used for power injection. As such are then a bit redundant when connecting them around the JST connector.

I followed (or tried following) the wires and the prop cable connection point has a white and green(?) wire left in the open. Not quite sure what their purpose is but would be I think a good thing to insulate them. Feeding power to both ends of a string is what is generally called 'double-ended power injection' and is quite common.

If I might suggest anything, it would be to download and read through the ACL 101 Manual if you not yet already and using the Form Search capability, see what others have said about power injection, wire AWG size, and connectors to name several topics which are or have been discussed numerous times.