My 2013 tree plans

I only used the drill press because I had one already and it was convenient, I don't know if I'd actually buy one just to punch the holes.
You may be better off (and cheaper) investigating a punch that fits in your eyelet press.
I started looking at those but then thought of using what I already had. I think theyre only around $30 or so.
 
The one big thing I find with the p12 vs p2 is p12 you can have 2 power supplies which utilize the built in fuse on the board whereas a p2 only has 1 so if you need a second supply for power injection you should add an inline fuse or get a bigger power supply.
 
ԆцряєсϮ said:
I only used the drill press because I had one alrEady and it was convenient, I don't know if I'd actually buy one just to punch the holes.
You may be better off (and cheaper) investigating a punch that fits in your eyelet press.
I started looking at those but then thought of using what I already had. I think theyre only around $30 or so.
Click to expand...

I didn't even know that was an option. I have some eBay messages out to some sellers seeing if they have these available.

Thanks for the heads up
 
So I ordered a hole punch for my grommet machine and the threads on it are way too small and even if those were right I don't know if it would even make a hole in a piece of paper. I think I am going to look back into buying a used drill press on craigslist and the kind of punch you guys used.

Here's what I got: http://goldstartool.com/Hole_Punch_Die_for_Grommet_Machine.html

Heres a comparison next to the grommet dies that came with the machine.

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How did you bend the steel bar into a circular shape for the top and bottom of your tree. Is there a different way of doing it as I have no experience with working with steel. Could you use PVC conduit to replace the circular parts? I want to build on of these for next year's show as I want to get in to using rgb pixels. I think this is a excellent mega tree design. Good work.

Thanks
 
In 2012 I used plastic conduit as my base but it doesn't give you a nice circle and it bends and twists with tension on it. 2013 I got a local metal shop to make up my steel frame for around $230 cash


Slightly different design but similar none the less. I used flat bar for its construction and the base is in three parts for storage. I will add the pdf drawing when I get a chance.
 
Did any of you come up with a final way of how to punch the holes and the eylets. Like cutting with a was punch and then pressing the eylets in ? Ect. Just wondering if a buy cheap drill press is necessary for the build are there alternative way to do it. Cheers
 
Hi again what did you get it made of so it doesn't rust did you get all the steel galvaised or did you paint it or something different again. Thanks
 
I didn't get it galvanized because I was planning on welding some hooks onto it. I eventually just decided to use zip ties to loop around the steel. This have me some adjustment. Now I wish I would have done the double d ring method though. I just bought some cheap export black paint from super cheap auto.
Getting it galvanized will add to the cost and it's harder to work with afterwards.The black spray paint seems to work fine and cost about $20.
 
It was Metwest engineering, but I went to high school with one of the guys there and I think he sorted me out with a good price.
 
cooper88 said:
Did any of you come up with a final way of how to punch the holes and the eylets. Like cutting with a was punch and then pressing the eylets in ? Ect. Just wondering if a buy cheap drill press is necessary for the build are there alternative way to do it. Cheers
Click to expand...
Doesn't have to be a drill press just a press. I used my dads pedestal drill. It's pretty large and sits directly on the floor. Worked great. I'm a big guy and I did it quickly, so not sure how a small machine would handle me going 100 mile an hour but the big machine was fine. I did wear some skin off my fingers though, but I was on a time crunch.
 
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