Null pixel video

Benslights

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well you will pay more for good quality soldering and tails :D so as long as your happy with that lol
 

AAH

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Queue up the argument on which pin in the connector is soldered to where ;)
The question of pin location has already come up. I have used the following as a reference for pin locations for years. I never rely on it for colours as they vary OFTEN.
I will document very clearly how I made them.
Technicolor_n(1).jpg
 

ryanschristmaslights

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Ray also has a 'standard'* in some of his products that come supplied with a 3-pin plug, like his 7*10 and 7*15 drop WS2811 icicles.

raywu-pinout-wiring-3core-HTB12ISAJFXXXXbVXVXXq6xXFXXXB.jpg

* That said, I wouldn't blindly trust that said standard is always followed. Personally I always reference the image and state clearly which pin should be for Data, what one for 5V/12V and Gnd.
 

AAH

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Ray also has a 'standard'* in some of his products that come supplied with a 3-pin plug, like his 7*10 and 7*15 drop WS2811 icicles.

View attachment 12294

* That said, I wouldn't blindly trust that said standard is always followed. Personally I always reference the image and state clearly which pin should be for Data, what one for 5V/12V and Gnd.
Unless my spatial reckoning has failed me Ray's drawing and the 1 I've worked from work out to be the same.
 

ElSalZi

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as a newbie, maight I suggest these be included in the 101 manual... don't remember seeing them there (thats not to say they aren't).
 

Bryan H

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This video is great Allan, I am talking about your Null pixels and Alec's pixel extenders at the Sydney Mini.... Hope to send you the powerpoint for review..
 

drakky

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I've used the Rob G version of these they are probably the simplest thing to solder , use 8mm dual wall heat shrink on each end and a 13mm for the center solder them push the 13mm over the LINE BUFFER (as they are not a null pixel) shrink it and then push the 8mm over the ends of the pigtail and 13mm already shrunk and shrink them and you have a perfectly waterproof inline signal booster without using silicone so easy and so neat and no programming anything you can put them anywhere and not have to tell the software they are there
 
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AAH

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I've used the Rob G version of these they are probably the simplest thing to solder , use 8mm dual wall heat shrink on each end and a 13mm for the center solder them push the 13mm over the LINE BUFFER (as they are not a null pixel) shrink it and then push the 8mm over the ends of the pigtail and 13mm already shrunk and shrink them and you have a perfectly waterproof inline signal booster without using silicone so easy and so neat and no programming anything you can put them anywhere and not have to tell the software they are there
Photos or it didn't happen ;)
 

drakky

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@AAH is it acceptable on the Null Buffers to join the 2 data wires together on the input side if you're going from 2818 leds back to 2811 ? or will this cause issues?
 

AAH

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@AAH is it acceptable on the Null Buffers to join the 2 data wires together on the input side if you're going from 2818 leds back to 2811 ? or will this cause issues?
No.
Combining inputs will generally not cause any issues but combining outputs is a brilliant way to let out magic smoke.
Only the main data line needs to continue.
 
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