Paint coro

A friend wanted to paint my coro props and just used a brush and standard acrylic paint which, no surprise, didn't stick very well and was coming off as I pushed the pixels. We then put an anti-graffiti coating on and had no more issues with it chipping etc. I suspect the anti-graffiti coating soaks through the acrylic and sticks to the coro because even though the acrylic was dry it became a little 'runny' till the anti-graffiti clear coat fully dried.
 
So, after a season of working with some painted coro it held up pretty well. Not very flexible and cracked where there was a lot of flexing and a little chipping while pushing pixels. Considering most of my props are sitting in rain, cold (10 - 30 F) or snow I was very happy.
 
Just a thought and not sure how practical it may be but what about the automotive paint used for the 'rubberized' bumpers cars have now-a-days? Guess on my part but I suspect there's an additive to make/keep the paint flexible. Regarding adhesion, I scuff the surface using a fine ScotchPad/steel wool or 400 grit sandpaper typically.
 
I tryed painting a new lot of coro
cleaned it
sprayed plastic primer on it
sprayed it white.
used painters tape
painted it red
-paint started to instantly bubble an crack.-

I dont know what i did wrong..
both the white an red paint was rustoleum 2x

anybody got any tips?
 
how was the temp? I used some of that rustoleum on something recently and it did the same thing. too cold out in the shed for painting I think.
 
I'm curious. I take it the cleaning took the oil off the coro (a good thing), so was the primer a requirement? Would the paint (made for this material) go on without it?

Just thinking out loud here.
 
What was the drying time between the coats? The manufacturer dry/'cure' times stated between coats are I've found very dependent on temperature and humidity. Also, how thick were the coats? For a flexible surface thinner is better I think.
 
had to use the primer first, otherwise the other paint peeled away with a used bluetape

They were cured for 4days, when i painted them it was a sunny 15deg c day,

I warmed the can up first, but as soon as the red hit the white, it was like a cancer cracking up an peeling all over.

maybe the temp was too cold for it. but i would'nt of expected it to peel the white undercoat off with it
(coro painted all white, masked off for red sections)
 
I've had different experiences at different times.

I'm painted bare coro without primer with the rustoleum x2 product, and it's remained perfectly intact.

I've also had the same brand peel up on me.

I can only assume humidity at time of painting has a bit to do with it.
 
I've been rubbing mine with fine 2000 grip sand paper to take the shine off, then cleaned with 100% isopropanol, spray and haven't had any dramas. Sometimes it does chip away when bumped or pushing the odd pixel but it's unnoticeable from a distance. The gold paint comes out horrible though, it really shows the lines in the coro. QLD here so we have plenty of heat, but at the moment it just seems to be raining more than sunny.... Sunshine coast my left foot! :)

I'm about to do some more and might use a gray primer this time, see how that goes.
 
I've never pre-cleaned (just brushed off noticable dirt) and simply apply the Rustoleum directly without any primer layer.
No sanding in between, just 1-2 coats as required for desired look.
So the bubbling may be the temps as suggested earlier.
 
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