Pigtail connector plug type comparisons

[TriC]

I have gone back through the forum history and can’t find the answer, so I’m posting here.

Has anyone done a cross comparison to the connector types used (RayWu, Paul Z & X connect) to identify if they match a known standard that can be soldered and used to make custom cables?
Eg, M12, SP13 etc.

I’d love to locate some solderable connectors (that are not pigtails), to make my own custom cables, rather than being forced to buy expensive moulded ones.

Thanks in advance

 

[Indigogyre]

To my knowledge they don't match what you might call a known standard. You are free to cut the ends off and use whatever 3 wire connectors your feel most comfortable with.

 

[Juddge]

you could use male 240v extension cord plugs if you wanted, any 3 pin plug will work, its Positive, Negative and Data
the only thing to query is the cable configuration of your pixels which cable is + - and data

 

[AAH]

Ray Wu and Xconnect connectors are quite low in cost compared to the strings of lights that they are connecting to. Using them rather than a connector used outside of the norm means that strings that you buy with pigtails on them will match already.
In a case for sticking with a known connector I was contacted last week by someone in WA who had picked up a secondhand display. That person had used 4 pin microphone connectors. Not only are these connectors non waterproof but by using a non standard connector there is no way of knowing without measuring continuity etc of working out how the connectors were wired to all the props.




https://addison-electronique.com/en...ccRT-8yYBzlF89pzztIGoMrJ5ltj8u0Ssv_q5amSRpDOx
680 × 680

 

[TriC]

Thanks to everyone for your replies.

 

[merryoncherry]

Xconnect connectors are quite low in cost compared to the strings of lights that they are connecting to.

Right. In fact after 2022 dead pixel fiasco I have so many dismembered xConnect plugs lying around that they can basically be treated as free. But I thought OPs question wasn't about saving money on the connector, but saving money on the extension cables by making your own. Purpose-made molded extensions are also generally a bit cheaper than the attached pixel string, but cost something at least. If you had a lot of spare wire, sure, you could solder up some extensions with the spare plugs, and the gauge could be thicker too or the length not cut to the nearest 2m.

 

[Katekate]

custom extensions? aint nobody got time for that.

Panel mount connectors would be nice though.

 

[TriC]

@merryoncherry apologies if the motivation for my question was unclear.

My question was aimed at the ability to make custom cables for cost reduction, repair-ability and increased conductor diameter to reduce voltage drop, without having to completely change the connector shipped with pixels.

@Katekate that would be great too.

 

[AAH]

custom extensions? aint nobody got time for that.

Panel mount connectors would be nice though.

I actually asked the question about panel mount pigtails a few years ago and didn't have any luck.

 

[Juddge]

there are custom made leads ?
i make my own with larger cables between the pigtails, using a 5 core cable, that way i can use longer lengths between the controllers and the first pixels, and the spare 2 are used as a power injection run, so each extension i make is +,-,Data and an extra +,- for power injection somewhere

i use 5 core cable 1.5mm2, and 2x 3 pin M-F pig tails (standard pixel cable)and 2x 2pin M-F pig tails(standard 2 pin christmas light plug) means every extension cord i make is a pixel lead and a power injection lead in one - makes it easier as i then always have both at every point always ( joints are soldered, heat shrinked and then completly covered in Glue filled heat shrink to make it all waterproof


but it does mean i need alot of CAPS to seal of the ends if they are not used, but AAH has lots in stock ( until i order more)

 

[djgra79]

The words China & standard are not often used in the same sentence.
Like all things cheap and chearful in this hobby, it pays to test every wire.
Every. Wire.
Just because you've been told that the red wire = pin 2 (just a hypotheitcal example) doesn't mean that every pair of pigtails you have bought will be physically wired this way.
I'd rather get the multimeter out and spend 5-15 mins bulk testing leads to ensure corrent connectivity than risking it and deploying in the display only to find out we've fried pixels and compenents as a result of a bad wire.

 

[Skymaster]

you could use male 240v extension cord plugs if you wanted, any 3 pin plug will work, its Positive, Negative and Data

This would be a very very bad idea. If anyone is thinking that using 240V plug and socket combinations for something other than their intended purposes then DONT.
The risk of such a connector being plugged into mains is too great, which could cause fires, electric shock hazards and all sorts of other damage.

This advice goes for Aussie AS3112 connectors, IEC60320 connectors, US NEMA 5-15 120V connectors, Powercon, XLR-LNE combos, etc - anything that is designed for mains power.

 

[battle79]

The Ray Wu and x connect (and likely Paul Z, never had any) connectors are surprisingly waterproof for a cheap connector. I assumed when I started this hobby that cheaper connector could be found if I was willing to solder/terminate them myself. That turned out not to be true at all. Anything cheaper wasn't waterproof and failed or rusted in my experience. Anything that was waterproof was generally more expensive, especially when you take into account cutting off a perfectly good connector on the lights to start off with.

I have always used Ray Wu, but recently got a whole shipment accidently with X Connect. X Connect are maybe a bit bigger and I hear they have slightly bigger conductors/pins. At the end of the day very few situations will need a connector with a higher current capacity then any of these options, and can be overcome by just using a second connector as a power injection point easily.

I have never bought a premade extension lead, I just buy the pigtails and custom make all my lead in the last days of setup, so they are all the right length (for new props only). I can then also use bigger conductors for longer runs or dense props, and thin stuff for close runs or low pixel props.

I love the soldering and making part of the hobby, but you can entirely do this hobby without even owning a soldering iron if you choose to. Ray and likely all other vendors will custom make lengths of pixels. Custom cable length before first pixel, custom length between pixels, custom length after pixels, add power injection connectors every xx pixels. If you can think it, just ask Ray or others and they will help you out.

TLDR, (in my personal opinion) decide which connector of the 3 suits you best and try to stick to it as much as possible so all your lights are easily movable from controller to controller each year.

Have fun and enjoy the happy faces on all the people watching your lights each year,
Rowan

 

[darylc]

If you are just starting out, my advice is choose x-connect, don't choose ray wu or paul zhang or some other connector. x-connected was created to be the connector that you can get at all the pixel stores. If you use one of the others they are much less popular and so you will have a harder time sourcing products.

 

[Juddge]

This would be a very very bad idea. If anyone is thinking that using 240V plug and socket combinations for something other than their intended purposes then DONT.
The risk of such a connector being plugged into mains is too great, which could cause fires, electric shock hazards and all sorts of other damage.

This advice goes for Aussie AS3112 connectors, IEC60320 connectors, US NEMA 5-15 120V connectors, Powercon, XLR-LNE combos, etc - anything that is designed for mains power.

you are correct, i was just trying to use something everyone knows has 3 pins to use as a reference, i never meant to actually use one . i was just trying to explain that any 3 pin connector will work, ( you are correct it most definatly would be dangerous to use 3pin 240v electrical plugs for ELV lights, it would be dangerous if plugged into a 240v socket) this is my bad, i only was refering to it as an example of a 3 pin plug people 99% of people will know what it is)

but in regards to the actual connectors i am more a fan of, use the ones that are already industry standard for the lights, there are 3 great choices raywu, xconnect and paulz
but from what i can tell its either x connect or ray wu for 99% of people, so why complicate things by making them custom ?