ShellNZ soldering tips

Gilrock

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I misread the first post. I glanced and thought I read "How to Strip?" and thought I can't wait to get home and see this video. Then I scrolled down and saw what was holding the camera and said Wait. What? Scroll back up to find out what was that video about?...lol
 

DanJ

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Good technique Shell. I have had problems with the strips I have soldered together and have decided I am going to avoid soldering strips together as much as possible!! It doesn't take very much handling/movement/etc to impact that solder joint.
 

ShellNZ

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I havent had any problems with soldering joints, its waterproofing them that I have had probs with.

I use 17mm clear heatshrink and 10-tonne of clear neutral silicone but somehow water still finds its bludy way through. Well not every time, its my rushed jobs that fail. Unfortunately another thing about the heatshrink is it makes the strip stiff so no longer flexible where the h/shrink is :(
 

dougd

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I hear ya Shelley. No matter what I tried, once I cut the strip water will find a way into the strip. I have a few ideas for this year, will let you know how they go.
 

fasteddy

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ShellNZ said:
Unfortunately another thing about the heatshrink is it makes the strip stiff so no longer flexible where the h/shrink is :(

Are you using heatshrink with glue in it or just simple heatshrink. Heatshrink with glue dries hard and is not flexible.
Using the basic heatshrink and silicone method will remove some of the flexibility but the amount depends on the length of the heat shrink as well and how much silicone is used.
 

ShellNZ

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Im just using basic heatshrink, other stuff too expensive.

I have the heatshrink overlapping at least 1cm of the casing. Should be plenty, plus I put enough silicone in it to sink a battleship, heatshrink and it all comes oozing out so I know its "full". Hellva mess.

As I say tho, sometimes I have done a rush job :-[
 

bluzervic

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I throw some electrical tape around it as a 3rd measure .


So far have not had issues with Pixels or the strips. However, time will tell


-Blu
 

fasteddy

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ShellNZ said:
Im just using basic heatshrink, other stuff too expensive.

I have the heatshrink overlapping at least 1cm of the casing. Should be plenty, plus I put enough silicone in it to sink a battleship, heatshrink and it all comes oozing out so I know its "full". Hellva mess.

As I say tho, sometimes I have done a rush job :-[

So are your putting the silicone inside first before heating the heatshrink.

I find that you dont need much silicone if using it before you shrink. Then apply heat to the heat shrink from the cable side first back to the strip, this helps force the silicone back towards the tube and give a good seal
 

Habbosrus

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Fasteddy said:
I find that you dont need much silicone if using it before you shrink. Then apply heat to the heat shrink from the cable side first back to the strip, this helps force the silicone back towards the tube and give a good seal
I used this same method, heating from the cable side back toward the strip/tube, forcing the silicon into the tube. I got a good seal this way and so far (2 years worth), no water ingress.
 

ShellNZ

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Im more talking about joining strip to strip, rather than strip to cable.

I slide the heatshrink on, then solder the join, then squeeze silicone directly onto the bare strip, then slide the heatshrink over the whole join, squeeze silicone under the heatshrink till its full (front and back) then apply heat. The silicone oozes out of the joins so its kinda a waste, but oh well.
 

fasteddy

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ShellNZ said:
Im more talking about joining strip to strip, rather than strip to cable.

I slide the heatshrink on, then solder the join, then squeeze silicone directly onto the bare strip, then slide the heatshrink over the whole join, squeeze silicone under the heatshrink till its full (front and back) then apply heat. The silicone oozes out of the joins so its kinda a waste, but oh well.

Ensure silicone is applied to both the top and bottom sides because if repairing strip and the silicone is not evenly distributed then it can allow moisure in. I have had great success with repairing pixels.

Or your issue may be caused by what you said.... rushing :D
 

BundyRoy

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When I go to clean my soldering tip a little "ball" of solder drags along behind the tip on the wet sponge and doesn't seem to want to detach. Is this normal or does it mean dry sponge/too hot/too cold/stuffed tip/too much solder. It's annoying me and it would be good if I could make it stop. Can't remember it being an issue last year.


Thanks.
 

AussieDoug

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I have never had any real luck using a sponge. Swapped over to using one of these instead. They are available from Jaycar.

[url=http://www.jaycar.com.au/Tools-%26-Soldering/Soldering/Accessories/Soldering-Iron-Tip-Cleaner/p/TS1510]http://www.jaycar.com.au/Tools-%26-Soldering/Soldering/Accessories/Soldering-Iron-Tip-Cleaner/p/TS1510[/url]

TS1510ImageMain-515Wx515H
 

pookie

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Bluzervic, I have used these before (when in the Air Force), we used to call them 'environmental splices'. The ones that I used were aircraft grade and worked well.

There is another type that has a metal crimp splice that is used to join your wire with a sealing sleeve that goes over that.

You will need a heat source to shrink the splice, such as heat gun.
 
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