Noob. Need AC replacement for solar for 1000 LED 100m Lytworx

golfimbulldogg said:
Would increasing the amperage out on the USB brighten the lights?
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unlikely, as you can't "push" current into something, it will only draw what is available. Increasing the voltage will probably brighten the leds, but you may damage something else doing so, so is not a recommended way to go. If you want them bright, you will need to wire them into a standard Christmas lighting 31v adapter.
 
Notenoughlights said:
Standard 31v 12W AC output christmas lighting adapter will do the trick for those solar lights. I've modified hundreds of sets (solar sucks lol)
Edit: AC because they'll be 2 wire type, if you use the adapter you linked they will fail or will not work right because
1: voltage is too high on the output, 40V
2: power rating is too low, 12w minimum
3: The adapter output is DC
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I'm new to this forum but this thread is similar to what I want to do. Sounds like you've modified lots of these sets, notenoughlights. I've probably got over 10 solar LED lights sets (2 string connections to solar box, a few Lytworks but various brand and types like icicle, fairy, net) with battery configurations generally 1.2V AA size NiMh batteries varying in quantity from 1 to 3 and from 600mAh to 1200mAh (solar boxes like golfimbulldogg posted). I don't want to throw the lights away but I'm over solar.

Any recommendations for a powered controller which will take lots of sets? An ability to control them is a bonus. Thanks!
 
random_disco said:
I'm new to this forum but this thread is similar to what I want to do. Sounds like you've modified lots of these sets, notenoughlights. I've probably got over 10 solar LED lights sets (2 string connections to solar box, a few Lytworks but various brand and types like icicle, fairy, net) with battery configurations generally 1.2V AA size NiMh batteries varying in quantity from 1 to 3 and from 600mAh to 1200mAh (solar boxes like golfimbulldogg posted). I don't want to throw the lights away but I'm over solar.

Any recommendations for a powered controller which will take lots of sets? An ability to control them is a bonus. Thanks!
Click to expand...
Measure the voltage on the output with the lights attached first with AC measurement, not DC, if the light string does not have a multi-function control option, and is just static or blinking all on/off measure with DC.

If the voltage is only 5~6v AC, then you can not wire these to the standard 31v adapters.

If the voltage is 26v AC approx, then you are good to wire these onto a 31v AC power supply
 
I wouldn't be trying any of the single AA battery sets on 31v, if you have a 5v 12v 24v power supply, try them on there, increasing the voltage till they work, if they light brightly at 5v, don't try them on 12 or 24v. If they don't light on 5v, 12v but light dimly on 24v, try 31v.
 
Notenoughlights said:
Measure the voltage on the output with the lights attached first with AC measurement, not DC, if the light string does not have a multi-function control option, and is just static or blinking all on/off measure with DC.

If the voltage is only 5~6v AC, then you can not wire these to the standard 31v adapters.

If the voltage is 26v AC approx, then you are good to wire these onto a 31v AC power supply
Click to expand...
Hi, without hijacking this thread. How would one go about safely measuring the output (e.g. sticking the multimeter probes somewhere)?
 
I've converted a few solar strings to low voltage by using old phone chargers, mainly the Nokia ones.
Works really well and gives the otherwise obsolete chargers a second life.
Like others have said, if your solar module has 3 batteries in it, the string is likely a standard 31v string being run at a lower than intended voltage.
One of the strings I use for my Mega Tree is actually a solar string with the lead wire from a scrapped low voltage set spliced onto where the solar panel used to be connected.
 
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