Absolute noob from Geelong with a unique project. HELP!

Your one response indicates you are leaning towards strips; strips are not diffused like the round or square strings. Other than glare, the individual RGB LEDs can usually be easily seen at moderate illumination and distances. The IP65 or IP67 coating is clear and does not diffuse either. Mounting the strip inside someting diffused, say similar to a floroescent tube will 'blend' the LEDs somewhat and also if impervious to liquids allow you to use a strip with a IP30 rating. You would still need to insulate the solder pads on the rear of the strip. An ACL Forum search of LED Extrusion or Strip Channel will give you an idea of what others have done to mount and diffuse strips.
 
Dmc said:
learn more about synchronisation with music and if it's possible to allow musicians to somehow hook up to it?
Click to expand...
There is a possibility of using a lighting console with xLights, I haven't got the skills myself but the possibility is there. This means if a band has their own lights and lighting console they can trigger patterns within their cues.

Alternatively, there is MIDI for control.

With some programming on the Raspberry Pi you could send MIDI commands? Something like listening to a mic or sound input which triggers MIDI.

Next taught is FPP (Falcon [Pi] Player) with triggers, the trigger would activate overlays to the current playing sequence.


It is diffidently interesting how many ways there is to [try] and achieve this.
 
Benslights said:
i hear a echo in this thread. @Mark_M
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I will grant that at 18:21 there becomes mention to Raspberry Pi and events. At 7:06 the menu is shown with all available inputs.
However; we can never assume that everyone will be paying close attention to the video for these details.

It's written in this thread now. I'll state that MIDI mentioned is overlapping but at least I give a bit more to it :).
Anyway; carry on and let's help this person out.
 
Ok, this is a deep rabbit hole. Thanks so much, everyone for getting involved.

I'll try to give you a better idea of exactly what I'm working with. The first layer of cladding, the frame will be clad with 1.2mm aluminium sheet, fixed on with sikaflex and rivets. Next layer will be the LEDs, running parallel vertically, fixed to the aluminium sheet with double-sided tape, sikaflex or whatever you recommend. Next layer is the external cladding/diffusion. As you can see in my videos the frame is in two halves, the base and the pop-top. The base will be clad with rows of perspex running parallel vertically up the walls, each piece will be bent at a 60-degree angle so all rows will be angled toward the back slightly. The perspex will be cut in curves to create a 3D wave effect. A bit like the timber one in the photo. The LEDs will run vertically alongside each piece of perspex to light it, I'll use timber to fill the remaining space between the LEDs and next piece of perspex - I'm also keen to explore other materials that could be used here if anyone has any suggestions?

The pop top will be clad in the same way although the external cladding will be copper fish scales. The perspex will be cut into fish scale-shaped strips - see photo for inspiration - Which will run vertically, the copper scales will be fixed on top of the perspex. As the perspex is only lifting the front edge of each scale, it will give a contoured effect and also provide a small amount of room for the LEDs to exist underneath each scale.

So every scale will be lit around the edge and the wave on the base will be lit.

I want to be able to make my own sequences and be able to hook it up to a midi controller.

This poses many questions in my mind. First things first, I need to work out

What is the best LED type to use? strip, string, node etc. Keeping in mind that they're going to get baked from time to time, not while they're being used, but in the heat of the day.
What is the best way to fix them to aluminiumium?
What is the best way to wire them?

Also, there are probably more things I need to consider that I'm completely ignorant to.

Does this make sense to everyone? What do you think about my plan?


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The perspex on the base layer will look something like this ^


20200623_182932.jpg
This is the perspex underneath the fish scales ^
20200623_183113.jpg
This is what each scale will look like
 

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I 'Googled' sikaflex and perspex to see what they were; never heard of them before. If the pixels will be 'sandwiched' I would think strips would be the best to use. I'm not sure whether 30 or 60 LEDS per meter though. Strips are approximately 10mm in width so that will be a limiting factor for their horizontal spacing.

Dmc said:
... I want to be able to make my own sequences and be able to hook it up to a midi controller.

This poses many questions in my mind. First things first, I need to work out

What is the best LED type to use? strip, string, node etc. Keeping in mind that they're going to get baked from time to time, not while they're being used, but in the heat of the day.
What is the best way to fix them to aluminiumium?
What is the best way to wire them?...
Click to expand...

Creating your own sequences is not a problem but connecting to a midi can be. My understanding is not too many individuals use a midi device to control their sequences so that ability while built in is not thoroughly developed and/or tested. Event triggers from an external source initiate a sequence tied to that particular trigger. If you have in mind something like a mike or line input as the external source, I have not yet heard of anyone attempting that.

As to the LED type, I would likely lean towards either a WS2812B (5 Volt) or WS2815B (12 Volt). The IP65 strip only has the coating on the face. The rear is double sided tape and the solder pads are not insulated so I would use the IP67 thinking the silicone tube would insulate the strip from the aluminum cladding and being silicone based not easily melt through from the heat. Not sure about mounting, possibly a 'U' shaped clamp at the top between the 1st and 2nd LED to capture the strip and a light spring tension at the bottom to help keep it aligned.

Regarding wiring the strips, you are essentially creating a matrix and typically strips are daisy-chained vertically or horizontally with power injection along the top/bottom or left/right. Here is a link that will help with pixel matrices.

pixel matrix | Canispater

blog.canispater.com
 
Strips are easier to install and give nice straight lines easily. I don't want to start the whole strip vs nodes argument but many have found out the repairs to strips, and keeping them weatherproof, is much more fiddly than nodes, where you can just snip out and solder in a replacement.
If you are planning on sandwiching the lights between 2 layers of material, you're already making it even more difficult for on the go repairs. Remember also, pixel lighting data runs in 1 direction. So if there happens to be a break or fault half way through or near the start of your data chain, all lights thereafter will not work. This doesn't mean you need to replace them all, just repair is likely at the 2-3 nodes/pixels that are working and not. And if you turn up to an event and half the side of the van doesn't work, can you easily access the issue to repair quickly before your artist is ready to go?
Which reminds me, always carry spares!
 
Hey everyone,

Things have been moving along with my project. Here's the latest youtube vid -
View: https://youtu.be/ThcPBoLCF-0


I've started experimenting with a WS2812b 144/m strip and acrylic sheet to find the best way to diffuse the light. I'm wondering if anyone has experience with thin individually addressable strips? I've seen some advertised with a 4mm wide PCB, has anyone used these?

I've got a design constraint where I need to use a little space as possible.

Thanks!
 
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