Best cutting tool (large sheets with curves)

Another method I have used in the past was using a sharp blade and a few different sized dinner plates that I could use as a guide when cutting curves. seemed to work well as long as the blade is very sharp
 
I clamp a Masonite template over the Coro and then cut round it with snapped kitchen knife which is shaped similar to Stanley knife but about 4" long, gives clean finish even across flutes


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Maybe I'm just being a perfectionist! I found the Stanley knife was very inconsistent in its cuts, and the pressure you need to apply to cut through 5mm thick Coro would lead to disaster at one point or another.


Perhaps the jigsaw and sanding afterwards is the best option for me, but I'm stunned there isn't a proper way to stop that chipping!
 
Perhaps the blade type in the jigsaw might change the outcome? I'm not an expert but would something with more, finer teeth work better than a coarser, bigger toothed blade?
 
djgra79 said:
Perhaps the blade type in the jigsaw might change the outcome? I'm not an expert but would something with more, finer teeth work better than a coarser, bigger toothed blade?
Click to expand...

I would agree that a finer blade pitch would be a better option as most common blades used with a jigsaw are designed for either wood or steel cutting. You may want to look at a blade that is more designed for cutting plastics
 
Fasteddy said:
djgra79 said:
Perhaps the blade type in the jigsaw might change the outcome? I'm not an expert but would something with more, finer teeth work better than a coarser, bigger toothed blade?
Click to expand...

I would agree that a finer blade pitch would be a better option as most common blades used with a jigsaw are designed for either wood or steel cutting. You may want to look at a blade that is more designed for cutting plastics
Click to expand...


Thanks again for the suggestions. Currently I'm using a blade intended for metal/aluminium with a TPI count of 30+, so in terms of more teeth, I think I've just about capped out. Only thing I thought of was getting a blade with taper set teeth, but all those blades seem to have very low teeth counts...
 
Intrestingly enough, I thought I'd just try a blade intended for wood (probably about 1/3 of the amount of teeth) and it seemed to cut much cleaner! Only worried about the volatility of using the larger blade, but this might be my solution for now!
 
If your plastic is made from [SIZE=small]polypropylene which Corflute or copys are made from then laser cutting it is awesome.

But if its PVC ( some are ) then its lethal![/SIZE]
[/size]
[/size]
 
multicast said:
But if its PVC ( some are ) then its lethal!
Click to expand...

Yes HCl fumes (Hydrogen Chloride) are not good at all. Add it to a bit of moisture, such as your eyes, lungs, etc and guess what you have.... You have probably heard of Hydrochloric Acid :)
 
lithgowlights said:
multicast said:
But if its PVC ( some are ) then its lethal!
Click to expand...

Yes HCl fumes (Hydrogen Chloride) are not good at all. Add it to a bit of moisture, such as your eyes, lungs, etc and guess what you have.... You have probably heard of Hydrochloric Acid :)
Click to expand...

with the laser you'll get raw cholorine as well. It will mix readily with any water vapour and condenstate as HCL all over your machine.. And corrode it..

Before you heat/melt any plastics take the time to understand which ones are safe and which ones are not. PVC definately is in the NOT safe.
 
I have seen warning labels ln teflon sheets not to inhale dust when cutting / machining and i am sure that the fumes from burning are very nasty
 
my laser is only a baby.. 300 x 500 cutting area. Way to small to be useful for entire sheets.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top