Bypassing Multi Function Controllers

Discussion in 'Lights - Store Bought and Home Made' started by johnstephen, Oct 30, 2013.

  1. johnstephen

    johnstephen New Elf

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    [SIZE=medium]I have read the superb wiki page on this site (http://www.auschristmaslighting.com/wiki/Bypassing_Multi_Function_Controllers) but need further help. Here are pictures (hopefully) of the circuit board that I have (a Ying Fu (H.K.) Industrial Ltd. - Model YF-BS-3101). Which connectors on the board should I solder to have the lights remain static?[/SIZE]
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  2. OP
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    johnstephen

    johnstephen New Elf

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    Here are the circuit board pictures again at, hopefully, a better size.
     
  3. burner

    burner Full Time Elf

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    If you want them static (on) only, you can cut out the controller all together and join the 2 red wires coming from the lights to the red wire going to the power supply and the same for the black wire. The same applies if you are hooking it up to a controller for a lightshow (like in an AVD48), except take out the wires comeing from the lights and plug straight into the controller.
     
  4. David_AVD

    David_AVD Good news, everyone!

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    That MFC uses a switch-mode power supply, so can't be bypassed the same way as the others I put on the wiki page.

    Your choices are:
    1) Cut the MFC off entirely and use the lights with a DC controller and power supply.

    2) Bridge some connections (TBA) and plug the MFC straight into the mains - not via a controller.

    If you wanted to use an mains AC controller with those lights, you're out of luck.
     
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    johnstephen

    johnstephen New Elf

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    Thanks for the replies. Here are more pictures of the unit for information. As you can see it plugs directly into the mains (2 wires 240v) with 3 wires coming out which make up the led light string.


    I just want to plug them in and have them in 'steady on' state only.


    Thanks for the advice so far.


    David, could you further advise on the options you mention. I'm a bit of a newbie but willing to have a go if I knew which connections to bridge. (I don't need any control over the lights - just mains powered steady on).


    Thanks again so far.
     
  6. David_AVD

    David_AVD Good news, everyone!

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    You need to link in two places as marked by the red arrows. Once at the top-right of the image to do one channel and again near the middle-right for the other channel.

    Take care not to short the wiring to the pin in the middle in each case. Clip the wires short or even better desolder and remove the two small 3 pin transistors where the arrows are.

    Do not do anything to the left side of the board.
     
  7. burner

    burner Full Time Elf

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    Ignore my most, as it was related to low voltage DC stuff. I wouldn't be playing around with 240v if you're not a sparky. Probably best to cut your losses and discard it. I've thrown just about all my 240v stuff out now, and only have a few rope light shilloette's left.
     
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    johnstephen

    johnstephen New Elf

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    Thanks burner for your reply. Yes, you’re right, that’s why I made the point about mains input – sorry I hadn’t made that clear in the original post.

    And thanks to David_AVD. I made the connections you so clearly illustrated (…I wonder will you now be adding this unit to the wiki page?).

    Sure, it was a bit fiddly, but it’s done and it works. The unit is now securely re-assembled and works perfectly.

    What can I say…

    Many thanks (from the other side of the planet).

     
  9. David_AVD

    David_AVD Good news, everyone!

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    Added to wiki as example 11.
     

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