Fuses on 27 channel DMX controller

DrNeutron

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HI guys/girls:

Just curious if anyone has used any in-line fuses with the 27 channel DMX controller or see it necessary? I plan on running 12v dumb RGB strips off this controller and was thinking I should put some fuses for each output (probably a 3 amp on each positive leg). I have beefed up the tracks as per the mod and plan on running 9 strips off the board.
 

AAH

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The need for fusing really comes down to how good your wiring is and whether you can envisage any damage occurring to display elements or the wiring on or going to them. I personally have very very few fuses in use on my display and have never blown 1 of the ones that are there. If you're only looking at controlling 15A or so I would put a fuse in the positive that feeds the board and that would be it. The reason being that the cabling on any 1 of the outputs should be able to handle enough current to blow a 15A fuse. If you're going to really push the board then I would maybe look at fusing each of the 9 banks.
 

kane

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AAH said:
The need for fusing really comes down to how good your wiring is and whether you can envisage any damage occurring to display elements or the wiring on or going to them. I personally have very very few fuses in use on my display and have never blown 1 of the ones that are there. If you're only looking at controlling 15A or so I would put a fuse in the positive that feeds the board and that would be it. The reason being that the cabling on any 1 of the outputs should be able to handle enough current to blow a 15A fuse. If you're going to really push the board then I would maybe look at fusing each of the 9 banks.
Haha - I'm much more clumsy than you then, Alan - I frequently blow fuses! Usually on the input side of my controllers through, and pretty much always due to wiring issues.. Fuses have saved a bunch of my equipment I think!
 

David_AVD

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Fuses are there primarily to protect the wiring after the fuse. Using separate fuses back at the power supply to protect the cable going out to each controller is good practice.

So instead of using a single large value fuse on the power supply output and splitting after it, it's better to split right at the power supply and use a smaller value fuse on each controllers feed. This way the individual wire's current capacity is more than the fuse that protects it.
 

DrNeutron

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So in this case you would recommend only one fuse between the DMX controller and the power supply, probably 15 or 20 amps?
I only plan on using 1 X 350 watt P/S for the 27 channel controller and run 9 strips off that. I plan on using heat shrink on each soldered pair and then a larger piece of heat shrink over the jackets along with an injection of hot glue before I shrink it down. That should keep thinks water tight.
 

kane

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DrNeutron said:
So in this case you would recommend only one fuse between the DMX controller and the power supply, probably 15 or 20 amps?
I only plan on using 1 X 350 watt P/S for the 27 channel controller and run 9 strips off that. I plan on using heat shrink on each soldered pair and then a larger piece of heat shrink over the jackets along with an injection of hot glue before I shrink it down. That should keep thinks water tight.

I'm not sure if what I do is 100% the best approach, but if I have a 10A cable, I use a 10A fuse, and then I ensure that I don't load this cable over 10A.. The cable would probably handle more than the 10A it is rated for, but the fuse would kick in before it would be a problem.
 

David_AVD

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You'd normally choose the lowest value fuse that doesn't blow in normal operation. As Kane said, the cable needs to be rated for at least whatever the fuse is. ie. Don't use a 10A fuse to protect a 0.5mm CSA (5 Amp) cable. A 5A fuse on a 1.0mm (10A) cable is fine of course.
 

Gray_magic

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Fusing my P12 has already paid off for me. I fuse all my controllers between PS and controller. I blew a 30amp fuse on my mega tree that was placed between the PS and the injection loom. I did it running white on my tree for a long period. I now know I can't do white over a few minutes with the setup I have. I have now replaced them with 25amp fuses on both PS and I run 30amp cable from PS to injection loom and 5amp fuse between PS and controller. Oh and not. Planning on having the tree on white for too long when I sequence. I really want to play it safe with such a time and hungry toy...lol :D
 

Gray_magic

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here are some pics of my controller setup for my mega. still some tidying up to do with the cabling and adding some strain relief but you can see the fuse block I installed to protect everything in the enclosure... even my exhaust fan.
 

DrNeutron

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Thanks for the pics, very nice setup (Wish I could find enclosures that big for a reasonable price in Nova Scotia). One thing is for sure though, I don't need an exhaust fan in December ;) . I appreciate all the suggestions everyone has given, you guys are a very friendly lot! :D
 

Gray_magic

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Definately look at fusing though. The fan on my setup is for the 40deg c days we get sometimes in summer.
 

DrNeutron

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I don't think a Nova Scotian like myself could hack 40 degree heat on a continual basis. We have hit mid 30's with humidex this summer and the humidity was almost unbearable. Funny though, when I was in Florida for a couple of weeks and it was high 20's and early 30's it didn't faze me in the least.
I think I will be buying some in-line fuses (probably 25 amp with 12ga wire). Thanks again for all the help.
 

Gray_magic

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no worries.. its good to give something back fter all the help i have received from everyone here.
 
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