How do "You" connect tint tubes?

[Bird]

I used Gorrilla grip Cyo glue with a 1 inch off cut split down the middle and wrapped around the outer to give the glue something to hold onto .

I am using "IPS Weldon #16, clear, medium bodied, solvent cement, for joining acrylic".

I am also using a 1" slice of tubing. However I am cutting and removing a small section of the ring so I can compess the ring and place it on the interior of the tube. I will explain my reason later "IF IT WORKS"
So far the bond is fairly strong.

Today is the 1st warm day I have had in 2 weekends to do some more work on my arch idea. Hopefully I will be able to post a 'how to' for the arch (in the arch topic section) soon.

 

[Timon]

One word of caution, although I've spoken to one manufacture of the tubes use for tinting there is more than one so the others may not be using the same plastic. What may work for one manufacture may not work for another as we don't know what manufacture the different tint suppliers are using.


What I would suggest is that no only telling us what works but also let us know what tinting manufacture the tube came from. The local tint shop should be able to tell you and may even tag the tubes for you if they use more than one. BTW, Even if they use a permanent marker I've found that thinner will take it off without hurting the tube.

 

[Bird]

What I would suggest is that no only telling us what works but also let us know what tinting manufacture the tube came from. The local tint shop should be able to tell you and may even tag the tubes for you if they use more than one. BTW, Even if they use a permanent marker I've found that thinner will take it off without hurting the tube.

I did trace the origin of the (blue) tint tubes i found at one tinting company back to the manufacture "Sonoco" whom made it made it sound like they are the only source for (red) tubes to 3M and most other tint wholesalers in the US. Of course take that with a grain of salt as any manufacture would want you to think they are the biggest. The manufacture stated 3M used exclusive red tubes (which appears true) and another big wholesaler uses blue tubes (don't remember name) and most others use white. So far what I was told seems true, I have found the red, white & blue tubes. So therefore, it seems in the US and Canada, "Sonoco" is the primary tube manufacture.

 

[Timon]

I Don't believe this!!!

I really didn't think that PVC solvent would work but just for grins and giggles I grabbed some of my PVC solvent that's used for water lines to give it a try.

First I cut apart a short tube using a regular blade, not a fine toothed one, on my miter saw. Then I put some of the solvent on both the ends to be joined, gave them about 30 seconds seconds to let it react and then pushed the ends together using my miter saw fence to keep them aligned and held them together for about a minute. I then stood it on end and let dry.

That was about three hours ago and I just went to check on it. Wow I can't break the joint It's holding like you wouldn't believe

The solvent I use was blue so it looks like crap but I have some Electrical PVC solvent, which is clear, that I'm going to try next. Will report back in another three hours or so.

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Ok, it's been a couple of hours and I have a report on the joining with the Electrical PVC solvent.

First, it works just about the same as the PVC solvent for irrigation pipe but there is really no surprise there.

Second, after more closely examining the joint done with the clear solvent I have noticed that the joint seems to be soft. If you really stress the joint you can see it trying to separate. I don't see that as a major problem at this point unless you a 12' one by one end. There may be enough stress on the joint that it might separate. We'll check this tomorrow to see if the joint becomes harder.

Now here is a picture of the tube. I didn't have any LEDs to light it up so I slid it over a Florescent Light. You can see the two joints. Note, you need to be careful when joining to make sure the joint is clean. Any dirt will really show up.

 

[mick8248]

Timon, gave your PVC water pipe solvent idea a go as well, it worked as well as you said, I only had coloured solvent on hand so will go looking for some clear stuff today. I only quickly grabbed some off cut pieces to join, their edges were not even or smooth but still made a strong bond I used a large clamp to pull the pipes together while they dried.

 

[mick8248]

I may need to reassess the use of the PVC solvent, after 4 Hrs of drying I applied a reasonable amount of pressure to the join and it gave way, it appears that the PVC solvent didn't "melt" the tube at all. I tried clear, blue and green solvent to a piece of tube not as a join but on the side to see if the tube would "soften" but after 5 mins the structure seemed unchanged. Not sure if the tubes here in Aus are made from a different materials or if our PVC solvents are not as strong. Any thoughts?

 

[Timon]

I did get come of the clear on the side of the tube and it got sticky and slimy so it was reacting with the plastic. If your not getting that then it could be a different plastic.

When I did mine I coated both ends to be joined making sure it was well coated, waited about 30 seconds or so before joining.

BTW, now that have been drying for more than 12 hours they're really solid. I don't think there would be any issues except maybe UV.

John

 

[Skunberg]

If these tubes are made of polystyrene as noted elsewhere. That's what plastic models are made from also.
Solvents like acetone and MEK kinda work but there's a clear water like model glue that works great on models and might be worth a try on these. I normally put a coat on each half, let it sit for 10 to 20 seconds, then a second coat and assemble, hold pressure for 30 seconds. Works great for models. Joint is stronger than parent material.

Brian

 

[Timon]

Brian,


Can you find a trade name for the one you use? Might help others fine it. I found some useful information on this site.

As I've said I really think were seeing two or more different types of material being use for these tubes.

I just check my test tubes again that I used PVC solvent on and the did snap although I had to put some force before it broke. I did notice that it actually took less force than I put on earlier so once the joint is fully dry it's not quite as strong as just before it fully dries. Go figure? I think it would be OK but not if there is going to be much stress.

 

[Skunberg]

Testors Liquid Cement for plastic.

Ethyl Acetate
Methyl Ethyl Keytone (MEK)
Propylene Glycol Methyl Ether Acetate

in pretty much equal parts (per MSDS). It works a lot better than MEK for models. A couple of times I put
parts together in the wrong order (duh) and it was easier to cut next to the seam than on the seam.
I'll try it out next week, I'm booked this week getting ready to move the mother-in-law in this weekend.

Brian

 

[Henedce]

Any chance of showing some close up pictures of your join

I will stick with this method . I tried a different glue today Loctite 408 Low Bloom .. Works well, it is a more expensive option though. Also trialed Gorilla Grip super glue in a tube which so far is also holding up well.

A little note on all super glues , They have no sheer strength, so without an overlapping joint you will have minimal to no success. I used to demonstrate this for customers by glueing my fingers together using Loctite 406 which is an instant glue, then using a simple biro to seperate them . Solvents to my understanding will have the same weakness hence why plumbers use joiners and dont just glue pipes together. The lap joint gives the solvent the strength.[/attach]

 

[Henedce]

Bunnings had a tarzans grip super glue that is supposed to bond to anything, wonder if it might do the same job.

Missed this . Tarzan grip in my experience is like liquid nails . It reads great on the packaging but in reality is a poor product that has a massive marketing budget. A bit like Araldite , probaly the poorest performing epoxy glue but sells a bucket load due to good marketing. The Woolworths hame brand epoxy far exceeds Araldite in performance for a fraction of the price.

And yes I do have a glue fetish. Not really just something I have spent a lot of time in training courses and in practical use. I wont promote a product until I have used it and proven that it can do what the label says it will.

 

[mick8248]

Did a test on a small piece of tube last night, soaked it in acetone for over half an hour with no softening or change in structure at all. So it is possible the tubes that 3M in Aus use to roll their window tint on is made of a different plastic. Have contacted 3M here but they say that the tubes are imported but not sure where they come from. Not sure what other suppliers there are of the window tint here.

 

[Bird]

Did a test on a small piece of tube last night, soaked it in acetone for over half an hour with no softening or change in structure at all. So it is possible the tubes that 3M in Aus use to roll their window tint on is made of a different plastic. Have contacted 3M here but they say that the tubes are imported but not sure where they come from. Not sure what other suppliers there are of the window tint here.

Are the 3M tubes Red?
They are here in the US.. If fact 3M (so I have been told) is the only user of the red tubes in the US.

 

[mick8248]

Bird the tubes are the milky white ones, went searching for other glue options and found Selleys Plastics Glue, it will bond to all plastics including PE and PP types. It has a primer that is applied from a felt like pen and the glue tube smells like a cyo type glue but not sure of its make up and acetone wouldn't remove it from my fingers. Tried joining end to end with no reinforcement piece and with in 30 sec join was as solid as a rock, placed one end of tube in a vice and flexed the tube with no sign of joint giving way at all, with real excessive force it might break but I won't be putting them under very much strain.