P5 Panel Banding Issue

We definitely do NOT recommend using the 1/8 scan P5 (or 1/4 scan P10) with the Pi hats. It only supports a limited number of configurations for the interleaving compared to either a ColorLight or Beagle based cape. There is definitely a reason we recommend the normal 1/16 scan P5's as they are way better supported across everything.

All you can do is try each of the interleave settings. If one works, great! If not, you'll need a ColorLight or a Beagle. Or return the panels and get 1/16 scan.
 
We definitely do NOT recommend using the 1/8 scan P5 (or 1/4 scan P10) with the Pi hats. It only supports a limited number of configurations for the interleaving compared to either a ColorLight or Beagle based cape. There is definitely a reason we recommend the normal 1/16 scan P5's as they are way better supported across everything.

All you can do is try each of the interleave settings. If one works, great! If not, you'll need a ColorLight or a Beagle. Or return the panels and get 1/16 scan.
Thanks! Appreciate the help :)
 
Going back to the original pic of the butterfly effect I noticed something odd and it matches on the video. Both horizontal pairs of panels have the exact same images on them.
Are you doing a save after making any changes to the xlights prop and then a re-render?
After making changes in FPP are you doing a save followed by the FPPD restart?
 
Going back to the original pic of the butterfly effect I noticed something odd and it matches on the video. Both horizontal pairs of panels have the exact same images on them.
Are you doing a save after making any changes to the xlights prop and then a re-render?
After making changes in FPP are you doing a save followed by the FPPD restart?
I spent a couple of hours in the zoom room last night and got some great help. There was a couple of other issues we fixed - the channels xlights was auto assigning didn't match what was in FPP, so fixed that and we got it to a much better state, but there's still some 'artefacts' which i cannot seem to remove. I've tried all interleave settings and got it looking 90% right, but there's still some banding.
I'm thinking i've unfortunately just bought the wrong ones to go with my pi and hat as per dkulp's response.
I assume the panels you have for sale @AAH will work with the pi zero and your hat?
 
This page has not been updated for a while so could be a little out of date, but may be of some help to determine the types of panels and/or controllers you need that are known to work well together.

I agree with Alan's post above, make sure to Save and restart FPP after each small change. As annoying as it is, it can make a difference. When I was setting up a small 2x2 P5 sign using a Pi & hat, I noticed it didn't always apply the settings I had changed, but restarting after a save seems to work pretty much every time.
 
I spent a couple of hours in the zoom room last night and got some great help. There was a couple of other issues we fixed - the channels xlights was auto assigning didn't match what was in FPP, so fixed that and we got it to a much better state, but there's still some 'artefacts' which i cannot seem to remove. I've tried all interleave settings and got it looking 90% right, but there's still some banding.
I'm thinking i've unfortunately just bought the wrong ones to go with my pi and hat as per dkulp's response.
I assume the panels you have for sale @AAH will work with the pi zero and your hat?
The artifacts that you are having could be related to the "slowdown" setting on the FPP panel page. Different settings are required depending on the Pi and panel speed. When there is a big mismatch it looks awful on moving images.

I haven't ever powered a Pi Zero. It's on my to do list for tomorrow. With that said I can't say with 100% certainty that they work with a Pi Zero and rpi-p10. If I do get a chance tomorrow I'll try to get 1 connected up and if I do I'll screenshot all the settings for later reference.
 
The artifacts that you are having could be related to the "slowdown" setting on the FPP panel page. Different settings are required depending on the Pi and panel speed. When there is a big mismatch it looks awful on moving images.

I haven't ever powered a Pi Zero. It's on my to do list for tomorrow. With that said I can't say with 100% certainty that they work with a Pi Zero and rpi-p10. If I do get a chance tomorrow I'll try to get 1 connected up and if I do I'll screenshot all the settings for later reference.
Thanks Alan, let me know how it goes!
 
Back
Top