Possible DMX setup?

[fasteddy]

This is a lot of great info in the forum and the lighting 101 manual. I just wanted to check when injecting the power from a single power supply if this diagram is correct for injecting power using the ws2811 strips and then soldering together the 2 and 3 core plugs? Is it fine to inject just after the 3 core male/female connection?


When running multiple +V and GND's out of the power supply to inject down the line how do you connect back into the power supply? Do you connect all the +V and GND's back to the same power supply terminal or split the power somehow once leaving the power supply?


Thanks!

What controller are you planning on using and are you planning on having seperate power supplies for each strip or one power supply for all. This will help me answer your question more directly.

 

[kane]

This is a lot of great info in the forum and the lighting 101 manual. I just wanted to check when injecting the power from a single power supply if this diagram is correct for injecting power using the ws2811 strips and then soldering together the 2 and 3 core plugs? Is it fine to inject just after the 3 core male/female connection?

yes, that looks right.. Depending on the type of strip, and type of cable used, you may need to inject power after every strip - sometimes you can get away with less - the best way to find out is to hook it up, and ensure that you have consistent brightness across the whole length.

When running multiple +V and GND's out of the power supply to inject down the line how do you connect back into the power supply? Do you connect all the +V and GND's back to the same power supply terminal or split the power somehow once leaving the power supply?

Either way would work. Only potential issue with splitting the power away from the power supply is that you need to ensure that the current rating of the cable going from the power supply to the "fork" is sufficient. For example, if your lights were pulling in 8A at each of the points that you inject power, you'd use 10A cable to run to them.. But, this would require 20A cable from the power supply to your "fork"...

One thing I'd recommend you do though is to put fuses between the power supplies and your cables. Last year (my first year), I had premade all of my cables, and hooked them up ready to go (with inline fuses). Two of these fuses blew straight away, which let me know I had wiring issues. These ere pretty quick to fix up, and I could then replace the fuse.. If I hadn't fused them, I'd say I would have had dead power supplies, fried cables or smoke and fire..

 

[johnson8ryley]

Could you link what type of fuses you recommend or have used that work well?

 

[christinaadams]

I'm looking to run 5 of the WS 2811 strips around a wall continuously (or at least to the eye). I'm planning on using either the ECG-P2 or the ECG-P12R controller. It seems that the ECG-P2 is better suited for longer runs, but even so, all 5 strips still couldn't be run in series from one channel due to each channel supporting only 4 dmx universes, right? I was planning on running 3 strips off of channel 1 and then the other 2 strips off of channel 2. Does that sound correct? Or would it be easier to use ECG-P12R and try to put it in the middle of the wall since one part of the wall curves back (see attachment below). Then I could run the 5 strings off of 5 separate channels and not have to inject power? I was planning on using a single 350w 12v power supply and injecting power along each strip if using the ECG-P2. Also, I wondered if the ECG-P12R would be a better option if I wanted to connect some RGB floods in the future.

Adding those fuses sounds like a good idea Kane. It seems like a good way to prevent too much damage due to any wiring issues. And yes, where is the best place to find those inline fuses?

Thanks for you help!

 

[fasteddy]

I'm looking to run 5 of the WS 2811 strips around a wall continuously (or at least to the eye). I'm planning on using either the ECG-P2 or the ECG-P12R controller. It seems that the ECG-P2 is better suited for longer runs, but even so, all 5 strips still couldn't be run in series from one channel due to each channel supporting only 4 dmx universes, right?

Wrong each output of the ECG-P2 can run upto 4 universes, that means you could run upto 12 strips in series together and inject at certain places along the length. You could use multiple power supplies so you can help reduce any voltage drop over the length by placing those power supplies close to the injection points.

I was planning on running 3 strips off of channel 1 and then the other 2 strips off of channel 2. Does that sound correct?

Not entirely, the term or 'channels' is incorrect, the ECG-P2 has 2 outputs which are capable of outputting to 682 pixels which is 2048 channels per output

The ECG-P12R has 12 outputs, it is capable of outputting 1 universe per output, so each output is capable of running 170 pixels, 510 channels

Now as far as running floods, then depending on what you plan to use for floods would determine if you can use a pixel controller. Standard floods like the rainbow flood will not work with a pixel controller as these use a DC output controller instead of a Pixel controller to run, two very entirely different things. You could use a bunch of 2811 pixel modules and convert those for use in a home made flood, but you cant use standard DC input or DMX input floods with a pixel controller. (Refer to page 51 and 54 of the ACL 101 manual to see the differences between the two controller types)

Or would it be easier to use ECG-P12R and try to put it in the middle of the wall since one part of the wall curves back (see attachment below). Then I could run the 5 strings off of 5 separate channels and not have to inject power? I was planning on using a single 350w 12v power supply and injecting power along each strip if using the ECG-P2. Also, I wondered if the ECG-P12R would be a better option if I wanted to connect some RGB floods in the future.

Both setups have there merits, the ECG-P2 is a far cheaper way to get channels compared to the ECG-P12R, The ECG-P2 main target is for running a more distributed setup compared to the ECG-P12R which is targetted at a more centralized setup.

Adding those fuses sounds like a good idea Kane. It seems like a good way to prevent too much damage due to any wiring issues. And yes, where is the best place to find those inline fuses?

Thanks for you help!

There are many types of fuses that can be used which can be bought from any electronics store. You could use the inline fuses, or you could use blade fuses, but these are generally not hard to find locally.


I hope that may make a few things more clearer for you

 

[kane]

Could you link what type of fuses you recommend or have used that work well?

I got a bunch of these style, as they were pretty cheap, and had the option of being waterproof in case I wanted to install outside. Also, even though they are the full size blade, they allow the mini blade style fuses to be inserted..
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Easy-Operation-Professional-Waterproof-Inline-Mini-Blade-Fuse-Holder-10A-Fuse-/290686775320?pt=AU_Boat_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43ae483018


But you can use any type like the ones eddy linked to from jaycar.


Also, David AVD has some fuse boards which are quite convenient as they have 6 separate fuses on a PCB - I have some of these which I'll use this year
http://auschristmaslighting.com/forums/index.php/topic,1409.0.html

 

[fasteddy]

I'm looking to run 5 of the WS 2811 strips around a wall continuously (or at least to the eye). I'm planning on using either the ECG-P2 or the ECG-P12R controller. It seems that the ECG-P2 is better suited for longer runs, but even so, all 5 strips still couldn't be run in series from one channel due to each channel supporting only 4 dmx universes, right?

Wrong each output of the ECG-P2 can run upto 4 universes, that means you could run upto 12 strips in series together and inject at certain places along the length. You could use multiple power supplies so you can help reduce any voltage drop over the length by placing those power supplies close to the injection points.

I better clarify this. It depends on what strip you plan to use. The common cheap 2811 strip is 150 channels per 5 metre strip with 10 2811 IC controllable sections per metre which is 3 LEDs per contrallable section and is 12VDC

Now if you used the 5VDC single IC to single pixel strip with 32 ICs per metre then this strip would take up a full universe per strip which means you can run 3 of the 32IC/m strip per output on a ECG-P2 and 1 x 32IC/m strip per output on the ECG-P12R

 

[christinaadams]

Ah, yes. Thanks that helps a lot!! I'm using the term "channels" incorrectly and it should be the ECG-P2 has 2 outputs. Also, I now realize my big mistake was that I misinterpreted the info of those 2811 Pixel strips. I read in the info that the LEDs Number/M at 30 pcs/m so I was thinking there are 150 pixels, but that's wrong. There are 3 LEDs for every IC which multiplies out to 50 pixels per 5m strip or 150 channels. That's why I was thinking I would need to split up the strips to different outputs.

For the floods I was initially looking at this RGB one from Ray Wu's or the ones from Holiday Coro. But if I already have the ECG-P2 it might be easier to make my own floods using the 2811 pixel modules and connect a bunch of those on the 2nd output. Otherwise, I would need a network switch to run both the ECG-P2 for the strips along with a ECG-D2 to convert from E1.31 to DMX and use the 27 channel DMX DC controller you mentioned before. Or is there a better way for running the standard RGB dmx floods using a controller like the HolidaryCoro one once the signal is converted to DMX as long as there are less than 512 channels?

Thanks!

 

[fasteddy]

For the floods I was initially looking at this RGB one from Ray Wu's or the ones from Holiday Coro. But if I already have the ECG-P2 it might be easier to make my own floods using the 2811 pixel modules and connect a bunch of those on the 2nd output. Otherwise, I would need a network switch to run both the ECG-P2 for the strips along with a ECG-D2 to convert from E1.31 to DMX and use the 27 channel DMX DC controller you mentioned before. Or is there a better way for running the standard RGB dmx floods using a controller like the HolidaryCoro one once the signal is converted to DMX as long as there are less than 512 channels?

Thanks!

If you were going down the holiday coro path then i would just use the 2811 modules as the holiday coro ones are just using dumb RGB modules instead of intelligent RGB modules
If using the Ray Wu option then you will need the ECG-D2 for DMX output or at least a USB dongle that will output DMX. The addition of a switch is not much cost and is simple enough to add, but really if starting new then i reakon you would be able to achieve your goals cheaper by just using the 2811 modules for your floods. But as always there are many ways to achieve the same result.

 

[fasteddy]

So if using the ECG-P2 then your power injection would look like one of the below examples.
One is for single power supply and the other is for multiple power supplies (picture taken from the ACL P12R pixel controller manual and modified for use with the ECG-P2)

[attachimg=1]

 

[christinaadams]

Thank you very much for all the info! Using the 2811 for the floods sounds easier at this point. Thanks!

 

[johnson8ryley]

Funny that you bring up Ray's Floods. Next year I will be doing floods and I was looking into what would be my best option: Rays, Holiday Coros, Rainbow flood. Many options. But then I came across this: NEW 10W RGB LED Flood Light Comparrison
And now I'm pretty decided as to which one I really want.

As you can see, I got everything in the mail today but I do have some questions.

Why is the Data and the wired together with clamp at the end? (Sorry for blurry photo)

And lastly, what do all the symbols on the power supply stand for? My guess (from left to right):


[?,?, ground, ?, ?, +V, +V, ?]


Also, inside of the power supply I have a switch for 110v and 220v. Would I need 110v or 220v for my arches?


Thanks for all the help guys.

 

[fasteddy]

The power supply markings are

L = Line, this is the 110V input
N = Neutral
I = The earth symbol, this is for your earth

Com = this is the common ground or people would see this as being -V
+V = this is the positive DC

+V adj = this is a pot that allows you to adjust the power supplies output voltage, it shouldnt need touching

Now the 110v/220v switch is only used if your power supply is set different to the mains voltage you have. In the US you would be 110V

Remember 110v/240v can kill so if your not competant then leave this to an electrician.


Now as far as the strip.

The blue wire = Data
The black wire = common ground (-12v)
The red wire = +12v


The clamp/plug is just for connecting the data and common ground between strips. The +12V (red) and common ground (black) wire are then for connecting power.
The reason you have two back wires is so you can inject power and ensure your common ground is connected from one strip to the other. But because you are using the T pieces in between and a single power supply to power up all the strips then you dont actually need the second black wire. The diagram before your last post shows how you would connect this up, the diagram on the left is more suited to what you are doing.

 

[johnson8ryley]

So technically I wont be using neutral or earth on the psu correct?


And thanks for clearing up the ground wire situation. I don't plan to inject power between the 1st and 2nd strip (t injector between 2nd and 3rd while 1st strip recieves direct power) so I might just use the clamps provided. Are the clamps waterproof and must I do anything with the spare ground wire between the first and second strip or can I just use the clamps to run the ground wire through the strips? Also, when I use the t, would I only inject +V and leave the 2nd ground wire alone and just let the clamps ensure the same ground runs through the entire setup?


Maybe I'm confused but I was under the impression that no matter where I injected power, I had to connect the ground wire as well. Maybe I'm just confusing myself even more.

 

[fasteddy]

You have me very concerned on the mains voltage connections by your statement, this is why i recommend having someone who understands this to at least do the mains voltage connection to your power supply. You MUST always connect the neutral and the ground as well as the active, these wires are for you mains voltage input to your power supply. The Com and +V are your low voltage DC outputs from the power supply. If you get this wrong you can cause serious damage to the power supply, lights and yourself.

Now as far as what your asking about 'clamps' you now have me confused.

So the easiest way when using the same power supply is to use the 3 core plugs between all the strips, then piggy back the black and red cable and connect the 2 core plugs and then put the T piece inbetween the 2 sections for your power injection

so like this. I hope you can understand the diagram

[attachimg=1]