Scotch locks - 3 wire

I have used the 3m branded successfully. Commonly used in Telco to connect wires. Quite a few people use them for quick fixes
 
Not these exactly but something very similar. As mentioned, good for quick repairs. Generally not liquid/dust/splash-proof. Sealing would extend their longevity and I have seen connections work loose over time. I would have to suggest a better repair at season end.
 
I don't have experience with these specific ones, and don't see a reference to a real 3M scotchlok part number or ID to check specs. I've used thousands of other types of 3M scotchloks for telecom & trailer wiring and they are great.

I was looking in the description to see if these are rated for stranded wire. The IDC connector looks like the ones used on solid wire, but I don't know if that is solid only. The ones I've used were all for solid conductors, ones rated for stranded are an outlier. In low voltage and low current use they are probably fine on stranded. If using them for high voltage or high (what is high?) current you might be more careful until you find a spec.
 
TerryK said:
Not these exactly but something very similar. As mentioned, good for quick repairs. Generally not liquid/dust/splash-proof. Sealing would extend their longevity and I have seen connections work loose over time. I would have to suggest a better repair at season end.
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real scotchlocks are filled with goo that seals them.
 
On the topic of connectors, I saw these used by the SV Seeker crew. Solder Seal Wire Connectors. They are solder connectors inside of heat shrink tubes. They are designed to be used with heat guns, but it appears that torches and even cigarette lighters (is a down under torch a US flashlight?) have been used. You strip the wires, then overlap them under the band of solder and heat. I've got some on order to test. I recently bought a battery powered heat gun (ryobi) and did want to see if that will work. Then I plan on testing other heat sources. I hear that preheating the conductors before inserting them leads to better success.

 
The general concensus is that solder splices like that are pretty crappy.

There's a YT video showing how poorly the solder penetrates the joined wires.
 
Tried to use the scotch locks from jaycar. Unless using a uniform wire gauge across every wire, its frustrating as hell. Just taught myself to solder, and have repaired a couple of connections blown about in the wind already by having all fly leads (leads from controller to prop/between props) removable with their own pigtails at each end.
 
I'm partial on that. Its all depends on the tool and time used to heat them. I just use 200 of them that 100 are probably buried in the snow today, no issues so far. The only reason I'm going to stop using using them is the amount of time they required to melt the solder, by the time the solder melt the pixel next to it already received too much heat so changing back to solder and heat shrink.
Nothing beat a good solder and a quality heat shrink.
 
I purchased an assortment of the solder seal connectors to try and well, I'm not impressed. I typically pre-tin wire ends and/or am changing wire sizes and these critters just do not work well in such a situation. It also seems I inevitably have the heat shrink in a sorry state of affairs before the solder melts.
 
don't use the ones used by telcos they are designed for single strand wire , I believe 3m do make ones for multistrand wire that are waterproof , any decent brand should be gel filled
 
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