For the purpose of getting these running with computer control, it doesn't really matter whether or not the original blinker unit is built into the plugpack because this will no longer be used. What matters is whether the blinker function is there or not and the number of wires between this and the first LED. You've mostly answered my first three dot points. I can't give instructions on how to hack a specific light set without all of them being answered but I am getting a better sense of what's in the display. What types of light set use the 1st, 3rd, 4th and 6th plugpacks that you pictured? They are uncommon voltages. Does the 6th one have a blinker? It would also help to include the wires in the photographs so that I can see how many there are. I don't have experience modifying net lights or rope lights. For rope lights, I suspect that it won't be too hard to increase the required voltage but a lack of wiring accessibility might make it unviable to decrease the required voltage. It'll also make it hard to know the required current. You'll probably stop buying rope lights and start using strip lights instead once you've converted to computer control. For the net lights, I think I would need to see them in order to determine how they're wired and therefore how to hack them.
One thing that I can see is that you'll need to get a controller that supports reverse polarity for the 2-wire sets that have a blinker unit. As far as I know, the only readily available controller that does this is http://www.hansonelectronics.com.au/product/dmx2-18/
This separately controls 9 light sets but it is possible to put more light sets into the same screw terminals if you want them to do the same thing as each other. It's a specialised controller so it'll do things that other DMX controllers can't do and vice versa. It is a DMX controller which therefore means that you'll need DMX signal in your display. The fact that you're thinking of having a few pixels means that you'll have a pixel controller too. Most pixel controllers have DMX output so they can send the required DMX signal to the DMX2-18. A USB dongle is another way to get DMX signal and although I haven't tried it with xLights or any software since 2015, I found that mine occasionally did a slight stutter which the viewers probably didn't notice. It can be useful for testing. For the light sets with more than 2 wires or without an 8-function unit, there is no reverse polarity so pretty much any other Hanson Electronics controller can run them. I suggest checking here once you've chosen one. Hanson electronics belongs to ACL member AAH https://auschristmaslighting.com/members/543/
Another option for these light sets (with more than two wires or without a blinker unit) is from Ray Wu (a popular pixel seller) at https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1558064774.html
This option lacks a few features that are present on Hanson Electronics controllers (fusing, current capacity, DMX termination and a socketed receiver chip) but you can add most of these features.
Regardless of the number of wires or blinking functions, for low voltage light sets that can't be modified to run at a common voltage, you have the option of getting ON/OFF control with a relay. This relay will run off pretty much any DC controller except for the DMX2-18. Another option that's sometimes viable is to use multiple voltages on the same controller but I don't think this works with the DMX2-18. Someone will correct me if I am wrong. Doing this would require multiple power sources but with some clever wiring, it is possible to do it with a controller that only has one power input.
We could do a video call with Zoom and I could have a look at the lights up close. A good next step would be to get the lights lit up with a testing power supply and then decide on a sensible common voltage. 31V has served me well but I started with older light sets. I wouldn't buy controllers yet because we haven't figured out how many light sets are able to be converted.
The YouTube links appear to be incorrect. Try copying the URL when playing the video.
It is possible to mimic the twinkly look with computer control. The computer will have full control of the light sets. This means that you can create a sequence that looks like the original twinkling and put that on repeat. I did this each year from 2013 to 2016 and it looked almost indistinguishable from the original twinkling despite me knowing how it was done. It involved a lot of copying and pasting. I liked it better than the original blinky units because I no longer had to keep setting the ones that didn't have a memory. The only little hiccup was that it looked like there was a split second of flicker when the twinkling sequence reached the end and started again. If the twinkling sequence was 10 minutes long then this would happen once every 10 minutes. It wasn't a big deal and I might have been able to get around it if I had bothered making each light set start at the same brightness at which it finished.
There are quite a few options for simple pixel items including:
One thing that I can see is that you'll need to get a controller that supports reverse polarity for the 2-wire sets that have a blinker unit. As far as I know, the only readily available controller that does this is http://www.hansonelectronics.com.au/product/dmx2-18/
This separately controls 9 light sets but it is possible to put more light sets into the same screw terminals if you want them to do the same thing as each other. It's a specialised controller so it'll do things that other DMX controllers can't do and vice versa. It is a DMX controller which therefore means that you'll need DMX signal in your display. The fact that you're thinking of having a few pixels means that you'll have a pixel controller too. Most pixel controllers have DMX output so they can send the required DMX signal to the DMX2-18. A USB dongle is another way to get DMX signal and although I haven't tried it with xLights or any software since 2015, I found that mine occasionally did a slight stutter which the viewers probably didn't notice. It can be useful for testing. For the light sets with more than 2 wires or without an 8-function unit, there is no reverse polarity so pretty much any other Hanson Electronics controller can run them. I suggest checking here once you've chosen one. Hanson electronics belongs to ACL member AAH https://auschristmaslighting.com/members/543/
Another option for these light sets (with more than two wires or without a blinker unit) is from Ray Wu (a popular pixel seller) at https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1558064774.html
This option lacks a few features that are present on Hanson Electronics controllers (fusing, current capacity, DMX termination and a socketed receiver chip) but you can add most of these features.
Regardless of the number of wires or blinking functions, for low voltage light sets that can't be modified to run at a common voltage, you have the option of getting ON/OFF control with a relay. This relay will run off pretty much any DC controller except for the DMX2-18. Another option that's sometimes viable is to use multiple voltages on the same controller but I don't think this works with the DMX2-18. Someone will correct me if I am wrong. Doing this would require multiple power sources but with some clever wiring, it is possible to do it with a controller that only has one power input.
We could do a video call with Zoom and I could have a look at the lights up close. A good next step would be to get the lights lit up with a testing power supply and then decide on a sensible common voltage. 31V has served me well but I started with older light sets. I wouldn't buy controllers yet because we haven't figured out how many light sets are able to be converted.
The YouTube links appear to be incorrect. Try copying the URL when playing the video.
It is possible to mimic the twinkly look with computer control. The computer will have full control of the light sets. This means that you can create a sequence that looks like the original twinkling and put that on repeat. I did this each year from 2013 to 2016 and it looked almost indistinguishable from the original twinkling despite me knowing how it was done. It involved a lot of copying and pasting. I liked it better than the original blinky units because I no longer had to keep setting the ones that didn't have a memory. The only little hiccup was that it looked like there was a split second of flicker when the twinkling sequence reached the end and started again. If the twinkling sequence was 10 minutes long then this would happen once every 10 minutes. It wasn't a big deal and I might have been able to get around it if I had bothered making each light set start at the same brightness at which it finished.
There are quite a few options for simple pixel items including:
- pre-made corflute items ready to have pixels added. ACL member Troy ELD sells them https://auschristmaslighting.com/members/1217/
website: https://www.extremelightingdisplays.com.au/ - the spiral obelisk plant frame which can be wrapped with pixel nodes or strip to look like a Christmas tree https://auschristmaslighting.com/threads/5973/
- pixel arches which are quite easy to make. They create a nice leaping effect.
- if you have a rope light motif that dies, you can keep it and replace the ropelight with pixels.
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