Technicolor Survival

DannyP said:
Yep got that, but I swapped out the entire string in that section and it still flickers.
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Hi DannyP I have been experimenting with different speeds and so far have found that 2400 seems to have the least flicker and smooth color transitions with the Technicolor pixels. I am using a P12S but I am sure the P12R would be the same
 
Very interesting pictures... I received my technicolor bulbs on 11/30 (fabricated right around mid-November). I'm wondering if these are fixed versions or will have issues... maybe I should email Ray.

-Louie
 
Are you sure the moisture is getting in from around the LED? I work on microwave towers and have always fought water getting into equipment through coax cable holes. No amount of silicone etc can stop water coming down vertical cables. Given expansion/contraction, it always gets in. Even worse is CAT5 cables. I've had these become a water hose. Amazing how much water can get in the slightest slit in the PVC, and how it can squeeze through tiny cables filled with conductors. Also amazing is what a few volts can do- I've seen CAT5 keystone inserts completely melted from a 12v POE connection inside a building after a heavy rain.
 
randallr said:
Also amazing is what a few volts can do- I've seen CAT5 keystone inserts completely melted from a 12v POE connection inside a building after a heavy rain.
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The water itself would not conduct anywhere near enough to melt a keystone jack. The more likely scenario is the water causing slight corrosion and an increase in mating resistance. This can be on the rear where the wire is punched into the jack, or on the front where the RJ45 plugs in.

Once that happens, the current flow (from the PoE) causes localised heating due to the voltage drop across those surfaces. This causes a further increase in resistance (and more heat) and snowballs to some point where it's limited by the available voltage and/or device current draw.

Somewhat OT, but I've seen a similar situation in MR16 style lamp holders with thin pins. It's usually heat induced expansion and contraction that causes it there though. But it's more insidious in this case. The lamp pins get burnt along with the mating socket. The whole thing gets hot and stops working, but the ceramic lamp base doen't melt and looks fine at a glance.

Someone comes along and pulls the lamp out. They see the burnt pins and think the lamp caused it. A new lamp is put in, it works and they leave it at that. But... the previously burnt contacts on the lamp holder start damaging the new lamp's pins straight away and the cycle starts again, but faster each time. They start cursing "these damn lamps don't last long" unaware that the fitting is the real issue.
 
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