Trouble programming the PIC for the LED strobe

Thanks Brian, I have sort of given up on the PIC idea but i will try that also.
 
I gotta say, I'm pulling out what little hair I have left because of these strobes!!!

When I put just the PIC on the PCB, I can program the PIC, verify the PIC and get NO errors - a green success window in PICKit2 software on both the programming and verification.

When I put the rest of the components on the PCB and then connect it to the PIC and check the Vdd ON box, the orange 'Target' light comes on the PICkit2 clone, but no strobe flashing. When I then verify the program, I get a "Verification of Program Memory failed at address 0x0000000. I'm guessing this is related to why I can't program the PIC with all the components on the PCB. Needless to say, I'm not having a good week with these things. Do I need to use the 3 Input terminals on the PCB instead of doing like Brian is doing and just powering with the PICKit2 programmer? Remember, mine only puts out around 4.6v and not a full 5v.

Any suggestions? Pretty please.
 
I really didn't do anything, but now when I connect the PCB to the PICKit2 programmer and click the Vdd on, the yellow Target LED On the programmer comes on and the strobe LED will flash one time, and then the yellow Target LED on the PICKit2 programmer shuts off.

For kicks, I tried MPLAB and get similar results, but with a little more of a message. When clicking on the 're-establish communications' button, the Strobe LED will flash once, then I get this error in MPLAB:
Code: 
Found PICkit 2 - Operating System Version 2.32.0
PICkit 2 Unit ID = PICkit2 Clone
Target power not detected - Powering from PICkit 2 ( 5.00V)
PK2Error0024:  PICkit 2 was unable to establish a valid Vdd on the target (Attempted   5.00V - Read   0.25V)
PICkit 2 Ready
and then when I re-establish communications, it repeats.

I gotta find a 5v power supply to connect to the strobe and see what I get.
 
Matt Edwards found that shorting pins 2 and 4 on the control port can cause the programming to fail. You *do* need this on if using the 2-wire interface but apparently not while programming. I do not have this jumper on at all - I was going to add it when wiring up my strobes. I may have given the impression that this was connected in my other posts but that is not the case while building/programming them.
 
I'm happy to say I have one of the strobes working. It's one where I burned the PIC before putting any other components on the PCB. Then populated the board and DID NOT do any other messing around with programming after that. Connected it up to a LM7805 and it's blinding me as I type.

Is the Sure Electronics programmer so much different that it won't flash the PIC with the board fully populated and it also won't power the strobe after programming to run it?

Hopefully I can duplicate this about 156 more times (after I get the solder paste in the mail).

I guessing some large heat-shrink tubing to encase the base of the plastic 'bulb' and the PCB is enough to protect/secure/finish out the light?
 
Built my first one today. I populated all components, but did not connect anything to the 4 way connector.

I used a PicKit 3 and it programmed first time. I then ticked the "Target Power - ON" and was greeted with a randomly flashing LED. :)
 
rkhanso said:
I'm happy to say I have one of the strobes working. It's one where I burned the PIC before putting any other components on the PCB. Then populated the board and DID NOT do any other messing around with programming after that. Connected it up to a LM7805 and it's blinding me as I type.

Is the Sure Electronics programmer so much different that it won't flash the PIC with the board fully populated and it also won't power the strobe after programming to run it?

Hopefully I can duplicate this about 156 more times (after I get the solder paste in the mail).

I guessing some large heat-shrink tubing to encase the base of the plastic 'bulb' and the PCB is enough to protect/secure/finish out the light?
Click to expand...

hey hey for small miracles! :D

I'm going by Phil's original picture of the completed strobe. I was thinking of shrinking one end of the shrink tube to the bulb, shoot in some silicone caulk and then shrink the rest (with circuit board) and clean up later. I was going to use stranded Cat5 pairs and loop the wires into those little catches on the bulbs to give it some mechanical strength. Of course the only bad thing about doing it this way is that it will be a real PITA if you ever need/want to reprogram the PIC...
 
I'll confirm what rkhanso did seems to be the process to follow for my pickit2, I got my first one going as well.
 
David_AVD said:
Built my first one today. I populated all components, but did not connect anything to the 4 way connector.

I used a PicKit 3 and it programmed first time. I then ticked the "Target Power - ON" and was greeted with a randomly flashing LED. :)
Click to expand...


I'm wondering if i'm killing mine with heat, the iron is only on there for 1/2 a sec but ive only managed to get only 4 out of 10 successful ones
 
I did wonder that about mine, too. I have an adjustable iron and cranked the knob down about 1/4 from max. It's an analog iron with no display, just a knob on the body of the iron.

A couple of the PICs for me had a partial success in burning firmware (see previous posts in this thread), so I wasn't thinking it was thermally fried, unless I can take out some memory registers (forgive me if I'm using the wrong terms) and came up with all 0s. But I haven't been able to get one programmed with all the parts on the PCB....Steve, you had the same result - giving me the idea to try the same thing.

I just ordered some solder paste and other items to work on these strobes in assembly line fashion. I may try a few more with the iron, but will probably wait to get the stuff to try the homemade hot-air iron made from the Radio Shack desoldering iron and the aquarium pump.
 
Steve said:
I'm wondering if i'm killing mine with heat, the iron is only on there for 1/2 a sec but ive only managed to get only 4 out of 10 successful ones
Click to expand...
Steve, can you post a good close up picture (use the macro setting on camera) of one of the ones that doesn't work please? We may be able to tell from that if the soldering is up to scratch.
 
I'll add my name to those having trouble programming the pic on a completed strobe, I get that same oscal error - dissapointing to say the least since my back hurts from being hunched over the darn thing! :)

I'm using a Microchip PICKit2 (not a clone). It's too late to try just the pic on the board, so I'll give that a bash tomorrow. Just thought I would mention it.
 
Hi, just received my boards and i need some clarification ( thanks for your help here ;)

1°) So, if i understood correctly, using the microchip we do not need any more components excepts the LED.

2°) Maybe i'm stupid, but i don't found the right place to place the chip (double side pcb and douple possibility)
If i see the printed marks side, i saw 8 pins PCB, mine pic chip have 6, and if i need to solder it on other face, where is the 1st pin mark?

3°) i see so much holes, than i cannot see exactly where to plug the iscp connector from the programmer.

Again, sorry, but i need to basic help here...

Thanks again for step by step help...

Nobody is perfect :'(


Cheers... Henri
 
riri7707 said:
Hi, just received my boards and i need some clarification ( thanks for your help here ;)

1°) So, if i understood correctly, using the microchip we do not need any more components excepts the LED.

2°) Maybe i'm stupid, but i don't found the right place to place the chip (double side pcb and douple possibility)
If i see the printed marks side, i saw 8 pins PCB, mine pic chip have 6, and if i need to solder it on other face, where is the 1st pin mark?

3°) i see so much holes, than i cannot see exactly where to plug the iscp connector from the programmer.

Again, sorry, but i need to basic help here...

Thanks again for step by step help...

Nobody is perfect :'(


Cheers... Henri
Click to expand...

If you are using the PIC then you need all of the components installed - take a look at THIS post as it gives enough information to get you started. The top of the PIC and NUD chip pin 1's go towards the edge of the board on either side. The PIC can only go on the 6-pin pad location while the NUD goes onto the 8-pin pad location.
 
Thanks Brian,
I missed that....
But i still understood, using the pic, no other components where required (only the LED)...
So here i discover a 1k ohm resitor too.
Is it really necessary?
Only this one is necessary?

Looking on parts for the kit, i saw on Pac 2 from Phil, only PIC 10f200t is mandatory...

Please confirm... i have a doubt now...

thanks for your feedback

Cheers.... henri
 
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