Waterproof Pigtail Pinout andd Wiring Colors

If only Matt saw an used this wiring standard :D .. (could'nt help the dig)

having a set standard of wiring for all of us would be good if we started swapping display items etc.
I found out first hand how others have wired there's , causing pixels to blow (live an learn).

I wonder how many are following this wiring standard at the moment? (i can say mine is)

I also wonder how many other "standards" are out there..

care to share everyone
 
Hard to follow that standard when my white 4-pin pigtails don't even have those colours in them.
I use exclusively 2811, and with the 4 pins I have 5V, 12V, Gnd, & Data all in the one connector. I try not to hook up the one that's not needed, but it makes my extension leads universal.

Cheers,
Rowan
 
Mine is not. In fact I have a mix in my yard and I don't recommend it. Mine are different sizes so I can't goof up too bad, but I followed directions of the prop I was building. Should have my own std so I don't need 2 pages on the wall telling me whats what.

Brian
 
The diagram is specifically for if you order pixels from Rita (Ray Wu) with the ends molded on. Doesn't matter TM1804, WS2811, WS2812b, WS2801, 6803, etc. If you order pixels from Rita (Like the technicolor pixels) and the ends are molded onto them, they should follow this standard. There is also a 3 pin to 4 pin adapter available so that you can run all 4 core to your controllers and plug in a three pin pixel string to it. The power and ground and data are through and through connections it just drops the clock wire.

While yes, it would be great to establish a "standard" I don't think anyone sticks to anything and consistency from the factories is hit or miss.
 
I`m Lucky, i was using that standard without knowing it was a standard. That would help me to keep me away from "Holy smoke".

Cheers.
 
Re: Waterproof Pigtail Pinout and Wiring Colors

Jim at Sandevices put the 4 pin version together for the 15mm connectors and the Ray has adopted it.

It's also used for DMX with the data pin being the DMX+ and the Clock being the DMX-.

David at HolidayCoro uses the same color code for his 4 pin 13.5mm connectors that also come from Ray although the physical pin positions in relation to the key are different.

Note although it shows the +V is Brown the Brown it's more Red than Brown on all of the cables I looked at so I normally call it Red.

Personally I'd recommend that this now become the "Defacto" standard color code for both the 13.5 and 15mm connectors.
 
Going to buy the Technicolor pixels how do you use the 3 prong y splitter for power injection or should you buy the 4 prong connector, can someone explain it any pictures would be helpful I have 2 - p12s that i'm going to use putting each string on it's own out put using4--- 350 watts power supply 2 for each board thank you Blair
 
sysco said:
Going to buy the Technicolor pixels how do you use the 3 prong y splitter for power injection or should you buy the 4 prong connector, can someone explain it any pictures would be helpful I have 2 - p12s that i'm going to use putting each string on it's own out put using4--- 350 watts power supply 2 for each board thank you Blair
Click to expand...

+1
 
sysco said:
Going to buy the Technicolor pixels how do you use the 3 prong y splitter for power injection or should you buy the 4 prong connector, can someone explain it any pictures would be helpful I have 2 - p12s that i'm going to use putting each string on it's own out put using4--- 350 watts power supply 2 for each board thank you Blair
Click to expand...

One way to do power injection (which is what I've usually done), is to get a male connector, a female connector and the cable you plan on using to run the power injection. I would then solder the three +ve wires together, the three -ve wires together, and also the two Data wires together.. Then, after heatshrinking the connections, the male connector connects into the first string, and the female to the second string, and the cable back to your power supply..

But if you prefer to minimise your soldering, the Y-Connectors are a good idea, although some soldering is still required! (The only way you could get away without soldering is to ask ray to supply you with cables with connectors on them already - which can get expensive with shipping!)


Assuming that the Y-Connectors have 3-core connectors on all three (which I believe to be the case), you would take another 3-core connector, and wire up the blue (-ve) and brown (+ve) wires to your cable (obviously ignoring the Data wire). This cable runs back to your power supply, and you've only needed to make two solder joins.
 
Forgot to say - if you were wanting to inject power at the end of a string (rather than between two strings), then you have a couple of options..

You could simply use a three-core male connector with the +ve and -ve wires connected to your injection cable, and connect this to the female connector at the end of the string.

The problem with this approach, is that it is going against the standard of the "output" (or "Live" or "Hot") being a female connector, and the "input" being male. (similar to 240v/110v cables)..

Therefore, to get around this, you may decide to connect a Y-Connector, put a cap on the "output", and on the power injection part of the Y, connect this to a three-core female connector that has the +ve and -ve wires wired to your injection cable.

This of course assumes that the Y-Connectors have 2 males and 1 female - that may not be the case!
 
 
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