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240V ac controller stopped working

Discussion in 'LOR 240V AC' started by BundyRoy, Dec 10, 2015.

  1. BundyRoy

    BundyRoy Senior Elf

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    I noticed tonight that my AC controller is not working. None of the 16 outputs are coming on. It's been working fine last few nights. We had a shower of rain today (lights weren't on at the time) so I'm thinking maybe it's a fuse. Had a look at the two fuses that you can see and they don't seem black. Haven't tried replacing the fuses as its too dark and I don't want to touch anything without turning the power off. Does anyone know what size fuses they are and is there anything else I should be checking.

    My concern is there is nothing going. I'm assuming each fuse does half the outputs and I figure it's unlikely that both would blow at once so maybe it's something else.

    Thanks for your help.
     
  2. AAH

    AAH I love blinky lights :) Community Project Designer

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    The right hand fuse powers the logic of the board and if it's intact you should have a led/leds on at the absolute minimum. If the leds on then data is the possible cause.
     
  3. OP
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    BundyRoy

    BundyRoy Senior Elf

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    Thanks Alan. There are no lightsleds on inside the controller enclosure. I couldn't remember if there were any leds to indicate power or signal or not. I have checked the powerpoint and there is definitely power there. Do the controllers have a led to show there is power to the board.

    As a side issue I'm using mighty brite lights so I'm not expecting any issues caused by the lights (other than maybe a short).
     
  4. AAH

    AAH I love blinky lights :) Community Project Designer

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    http://www.lightorama.com/PDF/CTB16PC_Man_Web.pdf
    I don't there is a purely "power" led but the status led should be doing it's stuff.
    I personally would be tempted to plug the power for it directly into an extension lead as a test as the quality of powerboards these days is very ordinary. The requirement for the safety shrouds on 3 pin plugs means that the contacts in sockets are now further back and they tend not to grip as well.
    While the power is off I'd check that the incoming power connection is securely connected to the spade connectors.
     
  5. OP
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    BundyRoy

    BundyRoy Senior Elf

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    Just looked at my board. It doesn't have the red led as shown in the manual. I'm guessing it's an earlier version.
     
  6. OP
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    BundyRoy

    BundyRoy Senior Elf

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    Bit more search and rescue this morning. I used Da_e131 to send through a signal to the LOR controller (via the pixlite 16 dmx output). Couldn't get anything. I then unplugged each of the my-t-brite lights and tested them individually. One string on the right bank would not work. I swapped out its cord (thanks Ron for giving me the spares) and then it worked. I'm assuming/hoping this means there is a chance that this light string had a short and blew the fuse to the right bank which in turn means the whole controller is out.

    It says in the manual the fuse is 15A fast acting. It looks the same size as the old style glass cylinder automotive fuse. Is it alright to use the automotive style fuse. IT's just the one in there is solid white inside the glass so I'm not sure if they work differently. Can't see the metal element like you can in an automotive fuse.

    Thanks
     
  7. OP
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    BundyRoy

    BundyRoy Senior Elf

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    Just checked right bank fuse with multi-meter. It's blown. Can't get a reading on the ohms circuit. Now just have to hope someone in town has 15A 250V ceramic fuse.
     
  8. AAH

    AAH I love blinky lights :) Community Project Designer

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    The fuse doesn't especially have to be a ceramic fuse but it does have to be a 240V rated 3AG fuse.
     
  9. OP
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    BundyRoy

    BundyRoy Senior Elf

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    Thanks Alan, that was my next question. I just found some glass fuses that are 3AG and was going to ask if they were the same as ceramic. You beat me to it. Thanks again.
     
  10. OP
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    BundyRoy

    BundyRoy Senior Elf

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    So from my investigation, 3AG refers to the size of the cartridge. Is the fast acting part just an American term for a normal fuse or are there fast acting and slow acting fuses. I gather just the thin filament that burns out is considered fast acting.
     
  11. David_AVD

    David_AVD Bite my shiny metal ass!

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    You want a fast acting fuse. Ceramic is preferred as they don't shatter if grossly overloaded, but a glass fuse will do.
     
  12. OP
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    BundyRoy

    BundyRoy Senior Elf

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    Thanks David.
     
  13. David_AVD

    David_AVD Bite my shiny metal ass!

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    After you replace the fuse, you may find that one of the controller outputs is stuck on. If so, the TRIAC for that output is shorted and will need replacing at some stage.
     
  14. OP
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    BundyRoy

    BundyRoy Senior Elf

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    Thanks for letting me know David. Fingers crossed it is okay. I don't really want to have to solder something on a circuit board. We'll wait and see I guess. Good news is I could get fast acting 3AG fuses at the local Jaycar shop.
     
  15. Jamie

    Jamie Lighting up the night.

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    Yep, had the same issue early last week. Have had a couple of my t brite power up cords fail.. And as suggested the corresponding fuse for that side of the board and the channel triac was blown..


    Pays to have a few spares of everything like your stocking up on now.


    Hopefully uneventful for the rest of the season for you.
     

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