Mega tree/Pixel tree - lights choice

[BundyRoy]

Thanks Doug. Was wondering if I could get a 12v system with single led per pixel. I guess it just uses a bigger resistor in each pixel.

 

[AussieDoug]

There is a step down transfromer built into the back of the strip. They come standard as 1m cutable sections. That is why you would need to get Ray to make them for you if you require an uneven length, so he can add more as needed.

 

[BundyRoy]

Doug, was looking at the controllers and most don't list ink1003 as a supported protocol (pixlite 16 is the only one that does). In Rays blurb it says the ink1003 operate in a similar fashion to 2811. Do you just use them in 2811 protocol.

 

[AussieDoug]

it is basicly the same chipset as the 2811, ever controller out that runs pixels should be able to run it.

 

[BundyRoy]

I've made some progress. Had a look at the budget and I think I can do it. Well financially anyway. Bit worried about ability, but figure I'll get there in the end. I have attached a spreadsheet of my needs, showing the options and my choices are highlighted in bold. The links to where I'll buy some of the stuff are just examples. I'm open to other suggestions.

My planned lights. LOR to control 16 sets of 240V basically BigW lights. I already have 2x10m 2811 strip lights. I want to hook these up using 1.31 network and controller. I plan to use these to make say 4x5m arches (or other multiple if thats too big).

I plan to get 10 x 3m smart pixel strips to basically make a matrix/pixel tree.

My thought process.

1. Soldering iron - Just get run of the mill option for now.

2. 1.31 controller. Really wanted to to go Aussie with the pixlite 16. In the end budget doesn't allow it. Will only go with the cheapest of the choices that will do the job. I think a sandevices e6804 will do it. I realise that if I lose a pixel half my show will go but that's the way it's got to be for now. 2 outputs for arches 2 outputs for tree. I'm a bit worried it only takes one issue to go wrong and the saving from going overseas has disappeared.

3. Lights. Leaning towards the 12V ink1003. More resolution. Bit worried if I can handle programming that many channels on my first go but won't go down without a fight. Have budgeted for Ray to put pigtails on each end for me. Is there a protocol, say male plugs on input end. Haven't put it in the budget but maybe I should get a spare strip. I didn't list any 5v options after getting the general opinion 12v is a little easier with not as much power injection and concerns of voltage drop.

4. power supplies. By my calcs I'll need 2. Again would love to go Meanwell but budget won't allow. Figured I'd get a spare one from Ray just in case.

5. get female pigtails for controller from Ray.

6, What size waterproof boxes do I need for controller and PSU's. All in separate box's or can PSU's go in together if box big enough. Open to suggestions, supply options.

7. LED strips zippy tied to conduit. Do people normally attach conduit to frame. Screws/zippy ties - details.

Anyway my main concerns are regarding the bits I need to order, potentially from overseas. Open for opinions on whether my choices will work, are any good or could be improved. I don't want to spend money now only to be caught out next year. There is some room in the budget and I do understand the difference between the cheapest option and good value.

I apologise for the amount of detail I go into but I am an engineer so I can't help it. I appreciate all your time in going through this for me and I'm looking forward to hearing your thoughts.

 

[Kaden]

1. That soldering iron will be fine, the only advantage of the bigger ones this early in your learning is the heat gun which makes heat shrink a breeze.

2. Controllers, you could buy any of them and be fine (pretty much). If you are on a budget then the 8 universes (potentially 1360 pixels) you can get out of a P2 is your cheapest option and they are kept in stock with AussiePhil in Australia.

3. The ink1003 are (reportedly) good and are 1led/pixel, just keep in mind they are double the price of 2811 3led/pixel.

4. PSUs - Most of us use Ray's and keep a spare - much cheaper and seem to do the job.

5. Pigtails - I would solder them myself (and do - I learnt to solder for this hobby - it is not that hard) and you will save yourself a fortune! http://www.aliexpress.com/item/50-pairs-4-Core-White-Waterproof-Line-15cm-long-each-male-and-female/323485474.html

6. I used Masters $10 waterproof boxes but I am trialing the CableGuard CG-1500 Enclosure this year.

7. 20mm pvc conduit and black UV resistant zip ties (both from a local electrical retailer) are generally strong enough to hold everything together.

You will also need:
- heat shrink
http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/107195810.html
http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/107195809.html
- lots of netural cure silcone (like selleys roof and gutter sealant)
- lots of cable
http://www.electriciansupplies.com.au/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=26_70&products_id=3389
http://www.electriciansupplies.com.au/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=26_70&products_id=3391
- silcone end caps http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Silicon-end-cap-8mm-10mm-12mm-optional/459153462.html
- a wire cutter/stripper (and maybe a crimper)
- solder
- a de-soldering tool or de-soldering wire (i think that is what it is called)


That may cover it all but I am sure I will think of some more things too.

 

[BundyRoy]

Thanks yet again Kaden. The reason I didn't choose the p2 is I have (well at least i think i do) at least 3 outputs. The two arches and the tree. I didn't think I could do that on the p2 as it only has two outputs.

I realised I needed the other tools, heatshrink, silastic etc but figured I would get them locally so didn't list them.

With the pigtails, I've been told Ray charges $1/strip to put them on. At $0.70/pair to buy I figured it wasn't bad value to get them put on. Might have misunderstood the extra cost though.

 

[ShellNZ]

The P2 has 2 outputs each one can do 4 universes, the 6804 has 4 outputs and each one can do 3 universes.

So the P2 can run a total of 1360 pixels, the 6804 a total 2040 pixels

 

[BundyRoy]

Thanks Shell. So my tree has 30m x 30 pixels/m = 900 pixels. At 170 pixels per universe that is 5.3 universes. If I'm right this means I would need to use both p2 outputs to run the tree.

Working this out as I talk. tree = 900 pixels. arches = 200 pixels (100 each).

p2=4x170pixels/output=680pixels/output.

So could put half tree + 1 arch on each output = 450+100=550 pixels on output.

Logically it seems harder to me to program half a tree and and an arch in one output. Would it make it harder for me to sequence doing it this way than having each item on a separate output. Ignore any power injection requirements or the fact I'm really losing heaps if the first pixel hapens to blow. Cost wise we're talking $30 + postage difference, so not a hell of a lot.

Then again if there is no real difference in sequencing and the back up is in oz then why not go that way.

One other thing about the p2. I noticed in the blurb there is no fuses. Is this a concern.

 

[Habbosrus]

You have the option of buying e6804 in kit form to save a few $$. I bought my first one in kit form and had no trouble putting it together. I had never done any soldering or electrical work before last year. I certainly understand the whole keeping it in budget thing, so this helped me out.

 

[ԆцряєсϮ]

The P2 has no fuses as its designed to be powered externally, ie. you run power from your PSU directly to your pixel runs.


I run my tree off 1 x P2 - 1/2 on each output, my tree is 32 strands of 42 Pxls.
The rest of my Pixels run off another P2, (2 arches, 5 windows, 2 tint tubes, a star and roof outline.
you dont have to run each element off a different output with a P2 you can just daisy chain them (pixel count permitting)
This year Ive obtained an E6804 which I intend to utilise for this years additions. The 6804 is a load bearing board so it can be setup differently to the P2.

 

[AussieDoug]

I have a few questions,

Have you got a software program to run it?

Are you planning on broadcasting music, do you need an FM transmitter?

Have you allowed that most things on your list are in USD not AUD?

With your controllers it may pay to get a quote from each place including postage, so you can get a good idea of the total cost. The postage cost from US may be up to $60 vs AUS as low as $10. You may end up only needing to spend an extra $10-20 and get a lot higher output controller.

 

[BundyRoy]

In answer to your questions Doug. I have s3 advanced and I guess I might have to use nutcracker as well to help with the pixels. I have a fm transmitter in my lor gear. I have converted all the things into my list from USD to AUD. I used a rate of $1AUD=$0.91USD. Hopefully that is the right way around. Divided by 0.91 to get AUD anyway.

Good idea with the quotes. Will do.

Thanks for the answers with the P2 Rod. Hope I got your name right as I can't type your user name.

 

[Kaden]

Divided by 0.91 to get AUD anyway.

uh oh http://www.xe.com/currencyconverter/convert/?Amount=1&From=USD&To=AUD
1.00 USD = 1.06583 AUD


You need USD x 1.06583 to get AUD (plus a little bit more for the conversion fees)

 

[BundyRoy]

What you did is basically the same thing Kaden. $100USD/0.91=$110AUD. $100USDx1.0658=$107AUD. I just allowed a bit more conservative conversion. I guess my explanation was poorer though.