Need some assistance.

B

burner

Full time elf
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Nov 2, 2011
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Hi all,
I attended the Melbourne Mini yesterday, which was very informative I must add. It's already got me starting to think about changing my plans for this Christmas.
Currently, all I have ATM, is an AVD 48DC controller, but looking at spec'ing up to some digital RGB strips. Intially, I was looking at getting some dumb strips as a starter, but am now leaning towards 2811 IC chips. Before I go and blow most of my Christmas lights budget on this stuff, I just need someone to confirm if what I plan on buying will work together.
I plan on getting around 10-12 or the Ray Wu 5m digital strips with the 5050LEDs and WS2811IC chips for $42 each for my guttering and windows.
http://www.aliexpress.com/fm-store/701799/209843764-568458133/5m-led-digital-strip-DC12V-input-WS2811IC-256-scale-10pcs-IC-and-30pcs-5050-SMD-RGB.html
The next part was to get the LED digital Modules with the WS2811IC chips too for some candy canes (is there an IP68 option with these or will this one do?) for $14 each 20 pieces.
http://www.aliexpress.com/fm-store/701799/209889132-564861370/LED-digital-module-WS2811IC-5050-3LEDS-DC12V-input-waterproof-20pcs-a-string-256-gray-scale.html
Now to get them to work, as best as I can figure it, I need to buy the J1SYS-ECG-P12R for $170USD to control it all, is that correct?

What I am unsure of also is the integration with the existing AVD controller, which works via USB. Does this and the J1SYS run seperate, or do I need to get the E1.31 protocol bridge too?
Is there anything else I need to get all this to work (electrically)? I'm not too sure just yet as to the power supplies. Working in the IT industry, I am able to source a few PC old P4 PSU's, can these be used anywhere in this system? I am trying to standardize (thanks tuppetsdad) on 12v for the digital LED stuff, and 24vdc for the AVD controller stuff.
I must also say, thanks to FastEddy for his guide, a very informative read and eye opener.
 
Before you lash out on the 2811 strips you need to make sure that there are pixel controllers that will run them. Ed (J1sys) is working on them and will no doubt offer a solution for them. Until there is a controller I'd hold off buying the 2811. It's only a few days to a week to get the stuff from Ray so you still have plenty of time.
The DC48 doesn't work off usb. That may have been something that wasn't made super clear at the mini. The option that I use and is use for low channel counts is the usb-dmx dongle. Once you go up in channel counts people got to something like Ed DR4 or his new D4 which accept E1.31 in and pump out 4 universes of dmx data via cat5 connection the same as comes out of the single universe (512 channel) usb-dmx. The DC48 is for controlling dumb elements like fairy lights, rope lights, digital strips etc.
The P12 controls 12 universes or 6000 odd channels of pixels.
 
burner said:
Now to get them to work, as best as I can figure it, I need to buy the J1SYS-ECG-P12R for $170USD to control it all, is that correct?
Click to expand...

Yes, you'll need some type of pixel controller to "talk" to your digital strip. The ECG-P12R is suitable.

burner said:
What I am unsure of also is the integration with the existing AVD controller, which works via USB. Does this and the J1SYS run separate, or do I need to get the E1.31 protocol bridge too?
Click to expand...

The DC48 (with the companion USB dongle) works independently of the E1.31 pixel controller. LSP can run both types of controllers at the same time.
 
The AVD is connected by the USB dongle (as David mentioned) and I still want to keep it in use for the older enquipment I have on the lawn and my conifer tree's in the yard.
Great news that they can run both together. Last year I was using Vixen, but am looking to change to LSP. It sounds like a lot of people have converted over to it.

Is there an ETA for the J1SYS to support the 2811 chips? I want to be able to bring everything and set it all up on the floor so I can start programming the light sequence. There's only a few months left before I need to start putting it all up, and I'd like to be prepared just in case I need to buy more stuff to make it all work.
 
I out ATM but think that a couple of the new controllers from Ed may well be of interest for this setup
To me the P12R is great for centralized things but better options are nearly here for distributed work
Looks like I have have ECG P2, ECG D2 and uDCG P2 for the Brisbane mini. The new D4 may also be debuting

As for 2811 support Ed has told me its done and tested but he wants to make it bullet proof

Phil
 
Sounds like I might put the order through to Ray Wu now, and hand for a few more weeks for the controller, so I can get it with the new firmware, or possibly a different/better option if it becomes available?

Anyone know if I can get away with a PC power supply(s). I thought I saw an adapter somewhere for using these for connecting it to my light display, but can't remember where (possibly the 101 manual)?
 
burner said:
Sounds like I might put the order through to Ray Wu now, and hand for a few more weeks for the controller, so I can get it with the new firmware, or possibly a different/better option if it becomes available?
Click to expand...

You can buy the controller now and update the firmware once it's released. Very easy to do with no special tools or software.

burner said:
Anyone know if I can get away with a PC power supply(s). I thought I saw an adapter somewhere for using these for connecting it to my light display, but can't remember where (possibly the 101 manual)?
Click to expand...

I make a little adapter PCB but it doesn't handle enough current for serious use. Buying a dedicated power supply (instead of PC PSU) will always be a better option.
 
I'm with David, buying dedicated Power supply units is better.


Why not draw out your setup including distances and then we can offer better suggestions regarding controller choice.


Cheers
Phil
 
My house is 20m wide. I have a double garage on the left (I house my controller equipment in the right side of this just inside the panel lift door). I also have a single garage on the right hand side. (so all up, about 9.5m of garage width). In the middle is a standard style double story house with a balcony/portico in the centre. The Windows are full sized (about 2m high and 2.5m wide).

The plan at this stage would be to light up across the gutters of the garages and roof of the house (about 20m). I would also like to go around the window frames too (about 36m). The candy canes will spread across the front lawn, in amongst the other xmas gear and AVD controlled items, including 2 * leaping arches (built on boxing day with 1600 leds each - 800 white/800 blue) and 4 * 600 blue led strings.

I chose the J1SYS controller because it looks like it offers the most channels and seems quite popular. At this stage if I purchase all the items above I will need just over 2000 channels. This way, I still have enough room to add next year (budget contraints here), The future plans will be to as more digital strings to outline more of the house, and light strings to do the roof lining. I then need to start replacing the lights on all the old shilouettes. Prior to the mini yesterday I was travelling down the dumb RGB path, but I can see by the time I get everything to that stage, that it will have been outdated already.
 
The 2811 strip you pointed to is the Silicone tube. The $42 2811 strip is solid silicone and is not the best choice in this case. There needs to be a warning about the 2811 solid silicone. I did talk to Ray last night about this and he should warn others abouth this strip.

The 2811 solid silicone strip cannot be cut and rejoined as they do not have any solder pads, this is very important when cutting strip to suit your gutter. This also makes it very difficult to repiair or replace a section

I plan to make my purchase of a few 2811 strip shortly but i will be using the silicone tube for $36 instead as this has cut points and solder pads and is cheaper both in cost and shipping. The down side to this strip is that it is more delicate to handle and needs to be mounted to something to support it. But for your gutters this would not be an issue as you can mount it to 25mm electrical conduit and then hook it to your gutters which makes it quick and easy to put up and pull down and store. This is how ive done my set up and find it very easy, it takes me a day to pull down my display. The solid silicone also has better light dispersion qualaties but i have used the silicone tube on my gutters and they still look fantastic. The silicone tube can be compared to the CCR from LOR.
The price of the silicone tube 2811 strip is so cheap it makes it hard to want to buy dumb RGB lighting anymore as the price is only $1 per metre difference so I can understand your change in direction.

AS far as controller support I wouldnt be to fussed about that as the J1SYS is +99% confirmed working and the E68x controller has just had firmware released to support the 2811. This also couple with the data showing that the 2811 can be run on the 1804 protocol and with my discussion with Ray that he has been told they will also run on the 1804 protocol, im convinced there should be no issue with regard to controller support. The 2811 protocol is actually an improved protocol in the sense of noise immunity due to the increased timing.

If havent already download the 'running pixels with the ECG-P12R' Manual then i I highly suggest you download it.
 
Thanks for the heads up Fast Eddy. I had selected the more expensive ones because of the higher IP rating, however if they are a pain to resize, I'll get the cheaper ones. I was going to either mount with conduit or I believe Bunnings sell a Silicon strip to add it in to. Currently I have a small metal clip every 50cm across the metal facia that's rivited in, and has a 3mm diameter hole in the bottom section, so I am able to cable tie onto it,. I also have 4 * eye screws in each corner of the windows, and at various points in the house to mount stuff.
 
Further dicussion about this strip may be that the pads are below the white coating, and could be scraped away and cleaned. Im only warning based on the discussion with Ray as i am preparing to buy some strip and needed to know about cutting this strip and Ray suggested this is not the best strip as it cant be cut.
 
Does Ray also sell the caps for these strips or are they sourced locally?
1 other item I saw at the mini where the little 2, 3 or 4 way tails that were permanently mounted into the controllers. Any idea where to grab these from? They look so much neater then my current setup. :-[
 
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