Correct, I generally use 14AWG and solder a pigtail on one end to connect to power injection T's. Personally I prefer automotive fuse blocks over the F8 distros from Falcon. About the same cost and higher quality and amp rating
Newbie Controller Question
- Thread starter BrianZ
- Start date
BrianZ
Full time elf
- Thread starter
- #17
I like this idea because I looked in to T's and it's less cutting and splicing. I would just connect several pigtails from my fuse block to all the injection T's depending on my display. For example, I plan on running 6 icicle strings on my roof line with 100 pixels each, totaling approx. 600 pixels and about 35' of roof line. So, I would connect 5 T's at the beginning of each string and run the injection pigtails to each, am I on the right track? My only confusing comes in, how do I figure out the load a 350w power supply can handle with the pixels and injections needed? Because I plan on purchasing a ready2run F16v3 and want to power the icicle lights, the garage, four windows, and a door totaling approx. 1500 pixels. I'll use one port and daisy chain the icicle lights and another port for the garage daisy chained to 2 windows and door because they're pretty close to each other, and a 3rd port daisy chained to the two last windows. Also, can you provide an example of an automotive fuse block you use?
TerryK
Retired Elf
You have not indicated if your pixels will be 5 Volt or 12 Volt. Kate's comment (Post #2) is accurate enough for 12 Volt pixels but not 5 Volt pixels. Meanwell's LRS-350-xx supplies are rated at 29 Amp (12 Volt) or 60 Amp (5 Volt).
You mention in Post #5 about open ports but not being able to use them due to power or lack thereof. Those ports can still be used by making them data only. If distances become or are a problem, F-Amps can be added.
To add to Kate's Post #8, the use of separate supplies also means that one could power both 5 volt and 12 volt pixels from the controller with the caution that care is used to not mix pixels with voltages they will not like. Too, A F16v3 powers from the V2 power connector (unless externally powered) so the Falcon itself needs configured for the correct voltage.
There are various methods of power injection and fusing and it is an opinionated topic. As Dan indicated, all injection should be fused. To help us critique better I suggest a sketch of your layout with pixel quantities, lengths ,and such which can be commented on. For fuse blocks, I use these:
You mention in Post #5 about open ports but not being able to use them due to power or lack thereof. Those ports can still be used by making them data only. If distances become or are a problem, F-Amps can be added.
To add to Kate's Post #8, the use of separate supplies also means that one could power both 5 volt and 12 volt pixels from the controller with the caution that care is used to not mix pixels with voltages they will not like. Too, A F16v3 powers from the V2 power connector (unless externally powered) so the Falcon itself needs configured for the correct voltage.
There are various methods of power injection and fusing and it is an opinionated topic. As Dan indicated, all injection should be fused. To help us critique better I suggest a sketch of your layout with pixel quantities, lengths ,and such which can be commented on. For fuse blocks, I use these:
Not sure I follow "I would connect 5 T's at the beginning of each string" Each power injection point would have a dedicated 2 wires V+ and V- going back to the power distro board. If you plan on running 100% intensity with 12v this would require power injection every 100-125 nodes. 350w power supply is rated for 29amps, 29 amps/ .06a (rough numbers 60ma per node) would be 483 pixels per power supply on white 100% intensity. I run at 30% intensity and have well over 1,000 12v nodes on a 350w power supply. First link I found for automotive fuse block https://www.amazon.com/Extractme-In...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
Note the link Terry posted doesn't have a Negative bus. You will need a terminal block or some way to connect the V- connections. I find it easier and cleaner if has V+ and V-
BrianZ
Full time elf
- Thread starter
- #22
Regarding the T's, because I will need to daisy chain 6 strings of icicle pixels along the roof line, each one carries 100 pixel nodes, I will need to power inject at the beginning of each string after the first, am I correct? I plan to go no higher than 50% because that's plenty of light for my home and neighborhood, which is a little dark. I actually don't see me going higher than 20-30%, only 50-60% for a hard-hit in a song or something. And thanks for the link, I just have to figure out how to wire in from the power supply to the block; no big deal.
Also, TerryK makes a good point, I will take a pic of my home and outline where the controller and lights will go.
TerryK
Retired Elf
Quick comment about the fuse block links Dan and I posted. Dan's has the V- on the block, mine do not. I bring the V- back to a distribution bar. My method of common multiple supplies V- tied together.
Fooey, overlapping posts.
Fooey, overlapping posts.
TerryK
Retired Elf
Maybe not. 100 pixels at 50% is in the 3 Amp range. Might to be able to inject at the very beginning and end of string 3 and 6. String 2 and 5 would be sandwiched and fed from both directions. Amperage in the injection points would need looked at. Injecting power at the very beginning and at the end of string2, 4, and 6 is another possibility.
Katekate
Senior elf
I'm power injecting at the end of the roof. My controller box has 2 1200w power supplies because I like to overbuild things.
here it is with everything running.
View: https://youtu.be/R6B1fYoFs94
Katekate
Senior elf
The main concern I would have with that setup is that all your cables have to cross the garage door / driveway. Could you mount the controller on the other side of the garage?
BrianZ
Full time elf
- Thread starter
- #29
I was thinking the same, but the cables can run over the door on the inside and come out underneath because there's space for the cables to come out for the door and windows. But I could definitely put there controller on the other side, but the cable still has to come out from underneath the garage door. I like the other side because there's an area where the cable can come out on the side of the garage and up for the icicles. So, will a F16v3 work for this display with power injection? I have to run extension cables with maybe some Famps and jumper cables around the dead areas, am I on the right track? In the future, I want to come out to several tress and wrapped the lights around them.
You'll have less headaches if you could put the controller in the middle of the display. One controller you'll definitely want to invest in some F-Amps. I would opt for an F4v3, differential expansion and a receiver or two. You'll need to power inject so an enclosure or two will be needed in the yard somewhere anyways.