CG-1500 Enclosure Alternatives

Snicko

Apprentice elf
Joined
Dec 29, 2013
Messages
97
Location
Se Melbourne
Good value. Potential stupid question, how do you anchor a base plate in this? Assume it doesn’t have threaded inserts like an electrical box but is there a section to insert a rivnut?
Nah they dont
Personally id use some SS bolts thru the back into a standoff inside, then some silicon over the bolt if i went that path

Those cases are very durable, I house my drone in one.
 

brando

Full time elf
Joined
Nov 26, 2021
Messages
130
Location
Ormeau, Qld
Nah they dont
Personally id use some SS bolts thru the back into a standoff inside, then some silicon over the bolt if i went that path

Those cases are very durable, I house my drone in one.
I went to look at them at my local Bunnings yesterday but had none that I could find.

I’ve been using these in different sizes depending on use and just about to make a couple 4 PSU PI boxes

 
Last edited:

Iain

Full time elf
Joined
Nov 13, 2018
Messages
242
Location
Darwin
On a bit of a tangent but I bought a few of these off eBay just in case someone decides to get close to my enclosures!

image.jpg
 

Skymaster

Crazy elf
Global moderator
Generous elf
Joined
Dec 19, 2021
Messages
1,042
Location
Western Sydney
I've used a couple of these Tactix Tan cases in large for mine: https://www.bunnings.com.au/tactix-tough-case-in-tan-large_p0331395

They seem to work quite well - waterproof, with the exception of a breather hole that's under the handle. This let through two drops of water with 5 minutes of direct hose spraying. Its purpose is to do pressure equalisation so that you can open the case if the outdoor pressure changes. Obviously this can be sealed up, but if you're gonna put vents on it because there's a PSU in it, then there's not much point.

This one has 2x power supplies underneath, and the upper deck has two fuse blocks and a PixelBone48 controller.
pb48-fin3.jpg


This has 1x PSU, 1x DMX2-24, and a 31V boost PSU on the bottom deck, and a HE123 on the top deck
he123.jpg


And finally this one has a single deck - one PSU and an F16v4 in it. It's been finished, but I haven't been bothered to get pictures.
f16v4.jpg



In all three cases, a piece of 3mm acrylic was cut as the base, I drilled some mounting holes in it, and marked the position on the base of the case.
Then some M3 screws were attached to the acrylic, going into plastic/vinyl standoffs.
Some epoxy was mixed up, and placed on my marks on the base of the case. The acrylic with standoffs was then pushed into these epoxy dots, weight put on top, and left to harden.
Finally the screws were undone, and the acrylic removed. This gave me standoffs in the base of the case, lined up with my drilled holes, and no penetrations through the base of the case were made.
 

brando

Full time elf
Joined
Nov 26, 2021
Messages
130
Location
Ormeau, Qld
I've used a couple of these Tactix Tan cases in large for mine: https://www.bunnings.com.au/tactix-tough-case-in-tan-large_p0331395

They seem to work quite well - waterproof, with the exception of a breather hole that's under the handle. This let through two drops of water with 5 minutes of direct hose spraying. Its purpose is to do pressure equalisation so that you can open the case if the outdoor pressure changes. Obviously this can be sealed up, but if you're gonna put vents on it because there's a PSU in it, then there's not much point.

This one has 2x power supplies underneath, and the upper deck has two fuse blocks and a PixelBone48 controller.
pb48-fin3.jpg


This has 1x PSU, 1x DMX2-24, and a 31V boost PSU on the bottom deck, and a HE123 on the top deck
he123.jpg


And finally this one has a single deck - one PSU and an F16v4 in it. It's been finished, but I haven't been bothered to get pictures.
f16v4.jpg



In all three cases, a piece of 3mm acrylic was cut as the base, I drilled some mounting holes in it, and marked the position on the base of the case.
Then some M3 screws were attached to the acrylic, going into plastic/vinyl standoffs.
Some epoxy was mixed up, and placed on my marks on the base of the case. The acrylic with standoffs was then pushed into these epoxy dots, weight put on top, and left to harden.
Finally the screws were undone, and the acrylic removed. This gave me standoffs in the base of the case, lined up with my drilled holes, and no penetrations through the base of the case were made.
I’ve got one of those, and two of the black craftright ones. I drilled out the breather hole and put my Powercon input there.

I used 6mm HDPE sheet as my base but have m6 screws through the base, sealed, then to a coupler then run m6 threaded rod
 
Top