WLED/WT32-ETH01 Wiring Help

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Brodey

New elf
Joined
Dec 21, 2023
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7
Location
Currimundi, Queensland
To be completely honest. I've spent well over 80 hours on this part alone. I should have asked for help a long time ago, I guess that's one of those things men really struggle with. Asking for help when they are stuck.

To make matters worse, I even found a video of a man who uses the exact hardware I have, except he uses a bread board and I do not, and I don't know how to convert bread board to wiring diagram.

Here is a list of my hardware:
  • 3.3v to 5v Logic Level Converter Module
  • NE555 DC Delay Relay (5v version)
  • DC to DC 12v to 5v Step Down Converter Module (5v, 3a output)
  • WT32-ETH01
  • Wago Connectors
  • 12v Power Supply
My issue is, my PSU seems to not turn on at 12v immediately, it "ramps up", so my ESP fails to boot. I can overcome this by disconnecting my 5v power to my ESP and reconnecting it. However, this isn't a good solution when you're talking reliable light shows when I turn 6 of them on each night.

Here is my current (not working) wiring diagram:
HELP.jpg

This, I understand. Shows where wires are going, red is positive, black is negative and blue is data.

This does not work, the ESP never connects to the network when booted, despite it appearing to boot once the delay relay triggers.

I can confirm 5v is received at the ESP, 3.3v is leaving the ESP to the logic level converter, 5v is going to the high side of the logic level converter as well. This all seems fine.

Some information that might be useful:
  • If I take out the logic level converter from the above, it will work and connect but my LEDs will just flicker or flash (it needs the logic level converter for this to stop).
  • If I put back the logic level shifter and remove the delay relay, it works flawlessly, data sends, lights show properly, no issues. But, I need to disconnect the ESP and reconnect it after the PSU has booted, just a real pain, hence the need for the delay relay which will let the PSU get to 12v beforehand.
Keeping in mind, my LEDs are 12v and require 12v and 5v data.

This man:

View: https://youtu.be/GeJxolPpiE8?si=vnmUD4cpNSMxJein&t=503
(video should start at the correct time stamp)

Has the exact hardware I am using, minus the 12v to 5v converter which I need that really plays no part here. He explains why the delay relay is needed. If I only knew how to convert the bread board logic to wiring I would, this is where I am hoping someone here might be able to guide me.

He literally shows everything I have in front of me, wired perfectly. He is doing something differently to mine and I can't work out what, somewhere I am missing a wire, or a wire is going somewhere it shouldn't or to the wrong place or something.

I understand I'm missing fuses etc; disregard that. I will sort that once I have this working so when I turn on the PSU (ideally from the house), it just connects 100% of the time without me going around disconnecting a wire on each on to make it boot.
 
I don't know if you have a good ground for the data signal to your pixels. You might try taking the ground off your level converter and connect to the ground on the pixels along with the 12v ground.

Did you solder your connections or did you just put wires in the holes or did solder pins and using dupont cables?
 
MikeKrebs said:
I don't know if you have a good ground for the data signal to your pixels. You might try taking the ground off your level converter and connect to the ground on the pixels along with the 12v ground.

Did you solder your connections or did you just put wires in the holes or did solder pins and using dupont cables?
Click to expand...
So everything not going to a Wago clip is soldered, if it was wire to pin it is soldered, if it's multiple wires joining it's a clip.

Is it okay to ground that way? The PSU is 12v, the LEDs are 12v, but the Logic Level Converter is 5v on the high side (I am not an expert in wiring, clearly).
 
It is very common to wire ground to ground when using a converter and 12v. As Martin would say "data and V- go together and join V+ V- as close to the pixel as possible". Of course there is the opportunity to connect 12v to ground and possibly let out the magic smoke but you could do that to your data line too.

That level converter picture looks suspiciously like a bi-directional level shifter. If so, soooo many issues on the various forums using them to drive ws2811. If it is a bi-directional level shifter, it isn't made quite like a SN74AHCT125 and you might just want to get something similar - saving your little board for other uses.
 
Try to Wire the NE555 direct from the 12v to 5v converter, don't go through the middle wagon. I suspect the esp is getting 3.3v before the delayed 5v
 
I would worry that your 12v power supply has issues and you are trying to workaround something that should never behave that way in the first place. Whatever is going on with that power supply will possibly get worse until it dies.
 
WT32s have boot issues - i can aclaim to that - you can get passed them by adding a 100uf or 470uf 16v electrolytic capaciter between GND and EN (W_EN) pin
this delays the boot by holding the EN to GND (reset state) so when the cap is full it lets the juice flow through and lets the WT32 boot (thats non technical speak BTW) ;)

Yes I also run 12v to 5v Bucks to power my stuff
HTH
 
As someone quoted me (correctly), in your diagram, in addition to the heavy gauge V- wire going from your PSU to the pixels, you need a V- wire that goes from the V- line on the level shifter to the V- on the first piel (yes, FOUR wires going to the first pixel) and while I assume the V- wire from the ESP passes through the level shifter, you should verify this to be sure.
 
Hoodlum said:
WT32s have boot issues - i can aclaim to that - you can get passed them by adding a 100uf or 470uf 16v electrolytic capaciter between GND and EN (W_EN) pin
this delays the boot by holding the EN to GND (reset state) so when the cap is full it lets the juice flow through and lets the WT32 boot (thats non technical speak BTW) ;)

Yes I also run 12v to 5v Bucks to power my stuff
HTH
Click to expand...
I had nothing but trouble with those things while I was adding them to the ESPixelStick platforms list. In addition to having a boot up race condition, they do not have a proper nodemcu interface making programming them less pleasant.

I also use over 50 buck converters in my show. They drop my 24v feed lines to 5v for my pixels.
 
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