2023 Journey - First display for JohnnyBoy

Johnnyboy said:

Push Button Speaker Build!
Been busy the last few weeks waiting for all the parts to arrive to put together a push button speaker button. I got a lot of the help from this YouTube video
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l-fVvqQ4RgQ
it's well worth the watch and answers a lot of questions I had about the build. Lots of other questions (mainly about programming the relay (Mode P1.2 is the one you want) were answered by doc google.

I couldn't find the exact parts in the above video but managed to get close. If anyone is interested, the push button is a retro arcade button! I don't know how waterproof it is, so I bought a bunch of them and will swap them out as needed. I figure I can always put a little hood or something on the sign when I get around to it, that's future me's problem.

Parts list
DC 12V 24V 120W*2 TPA3116 D2 Dual Channel digital Power audio amplifier board
12Vto 5V DC-DC Step Down Charger Power Module Dual USB Output Buck Voltage Board 3A
DC 6-30V Support Micro USB 5V LED Display Automation Cycle Delay Timer Control Off Switch Delay Time Relay 6V 9V 12V 24V
FM Radio Receiver Module Frequency Modulation Stereo Receiving PCB Circuit Board With Silencing LCD Display 3-5V LCD Module
33mm Arcade Push Button Led Momentary illiminated Transparent Buttons with Micro Switch
View attachment 22904

Firstly I put together a test set up in the most dodgy way possible with all the electrical tape and miss-matched wiring colours. It only took me two blown fusses to figure it all out! A win in my book.

12V power is delivered by a 2pin power injection wire that will come directly off my little power distribution boxes, meaning no need for dedicated power supply in the box.
View attachment 22903

Once i figured out the amp and timer, it was trying to intergrade a FM receiver so i could have an all-in-one solution. Just give the box power and connect up some speakers. Instant party! I tried to use side cutters to remove one of the USB headers.......it did not go as planned, luckily there are two ports and I could use the other one. I ended up just soldering to the back of it, it worked much better that way. The two outside pins are + & - for those that are interested.

I have discovered that I am not the best as soldering.... I can't tin very well, and I seem to just add more solder until it sticks together.......Hopefully as I progress through this hobby my skills will improve. A better soldering iron would probably help.

Last thing that didn't really work in my favour is putting it all in this very small box. Bud Box NBF32004 - 150 x 100 x 70. It's all I had laying around and didn't want to buy another one. It fits but I had to get creative with mounting and there might be a few stray holes in the acrylic from failed mounting attempts.

But it's done! Another item ticked off the to do list! Checked it all worked with the FM Transmitter from Light-It-Up and worked a treat! Got a set of large floor stand speakers from the local Buy Nothing Page for free and ready to rock.

Very impressed with the sound level this little amplifier puts out as well!

If anyone is interested in a wiring diagram let me know!
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Next job is to finish drilling the last of the holes in the electrical conduit and start pixel pushing. Hopefully can get back to that in the next few weeks!

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tterbo_1988 said:

What are

What are these small boxes you are using?

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Johnnyboy said:

Box 3 Ground - 2 receivers
- F48 input 9 & 10
- Channel 33-40
- 2x600w PS
View attachment 22817
View attachment 22818

Box 4 Ground - 3 receivers
- F48 input 1-3
- Channel 1-12
- 3x600PS
View attachment 22819


Building the Boxes
I've managed to put together the F48 box and one of the 2 receiver boxes. I didn't take a photo of the F48 as yet, but i'll upload one when i get the chance.
I may upgrade the timers to a wifi enabled version, but these will still do the job.
Fans/Covers - da.share
Receivers - Hanson
PS - Lightitup
Box - Digi key Bud 23026
Mounting plates - Extreme Lighting
View attachment 22820

Injection Boxes
As i want to limit the length of the PI extension cables as much as possible, i've constructed a bunch of power injection boxes that will enable a large 6mm2 cable from the PS to the PI box that i can locate right near the props. More work yes, but hopefully this simplifies connections a little, and has less cable length overall, time will tell. At this stage i haven't figured out what power connections i will be using. I have a few options and would appreciate any feedback for use on 12v
- Powercon - these seem to be limited to 20A, but i believe this is at 240v? I do like the simplicity of the connection though
- Solar power connectors - i think this is the option i'll use as they are designed for 12v. Costs do add up for these.
- EC5 connectors with heat shrink. I have a bunch of these already from my RC days, not water proof, but i could use heat shrink to make them quite water tight. Its the free option and i quite like that price! Plus they have some crazy current carrying ability.
View attachment 22821


I've got lots of projects in the works for mounting etc and will update the post regularly when i get the change.

Comments and feedback always welcome!

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