New Central Command.

David_AVD

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If the "central command" board is connected to the switchboard feed via fixed wiring (not a plug and socket) then in theory the neutral is always at ground potential.

This assumes that the switchboard breaker is not an MCB/RCD combo or has an RCD in use with it. Covering the neutral link bar would probably be prudent in any case.
 

SmartAlecLights

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if that was going to be wired into the house..
Would'nt Meanwell power supplys be best..
just incase the china ones went up in smoke an burnt the house down..?
(insurance might not cover the china power supplys, where your safer with meanwell)

just my 2cents
 

cdjazman

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scamper said:
Just on the breakers...
Is this hardwired to the power? or does it go through a power point?
If the later, the breakers are definitely of no use as a standard power point / cord is only rated at 10amps.
Also, another thing to think about is turning all of those power supplies on at once could possibly trip your main breaker with the inrush current alone, so it may be worthwhile remembering to flip 1 at a time at switch on.


edit... By the way, in no way is anyone here having a go at you, they are just questions or opinions from our many mistakes in the past ::)

@scamper - I am not taking any offense to anything written. :) :) :) I am more than happy for questions and opinion - That is the main reason I put this up. As I have stated I am not an electrician - just a geek.

To answer your question it is through a powerpoint.

lytnin said:
Question ...


I get why the earths are connected through a bus bar. But why the Neutrals as well? Shouldn't they have the same insulation as the active's?


Or do you have a cover to go over that bar?

@lytnin - I had planned on putting sides and a mesh style door to "enclose" the whole thing - but i get your point and will try to find a cover for the Neutral bar.
 

lytnin

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Thanks David & CD for your answers to my question.

I've always treated both sides (active & neutral) as potential killers, and will continue to do so.

Like you CD I'm not an electrician either so was more curious as to the safety side of things.
 

leckyau

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[quote author=lytnin link=topic=9563.msg85271#msg85271 date=1486891083

I've always treated both sides (active & neutral) as potential killers, and will continue to do so.

Like you CD I'm not an electrician either so was more curious as to the safety side of things.


Hi, just looking at your wiring on your board I see that you are using single insulatrion for both your 240v supply and the 12v or 5v supply.
Regulations are there must be a minumin of 50mm apart. (of cause not at the power suppy unit but there must be a barrier between the different voltages).
Good pratice is to run double insulated wiring right up to the terminals of the power supply and back to the inside of the circuit breakers cover.
The double insulation must be a minimun of 25mm up inside the cover of any enclosures.

With using single insulated wires of both 240v & 5v/12v you are more likely to have a leak between them which would place the low voltages to 240v if the insulation were to be damaged thus blowing the lower voltage gear up and someone getting a shock.

You could use single insulated wiring for the 5v/12v but then I would keep different voltages seperated as well ie: 5 volts from 12 volts to avoid any chance of leakage from 12v across to your 5v stuff.
But looks like a fine job you are doing, keep up the good work, Regards, John
 

cdjazman

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leckyau said:
lytnin said:
Hey John,

Thanks for the overview.
I am only using 12v so 12v to 5v wont be an issue...... Keeps it simple for me.... :) :) :)

Also will look into getting some single core double insulation for the earth/neutral/active wiring. Maybe keep those wires above the board and just run the 12v below??????
 

leckyau

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cdjazman said:
Hey John,

Thanks for the overview.
I am only using 12v so 12v to 5v wont be an issue...... Keeps it simple for me.... :) :) :)

Also will look into getting some single core double insulation for the earth/neutral/active wiring. Maybe keep those wires above the board and just run the 12v below? ??? ??
You could use enclosed ducting on the front or back of the board to run the 240v single insulated wires to save buying any other wiring. :D
 

leckyau

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leckyau said:
cdjazman said:
Hey John,

Thanks for the overview.
I am only using 12v so 12v to 5v wont be an issue...... Keeps it simple for me.... :) :) :)

Also will look into getting some single core double insulation for the earth/neutral/active wiring. Maybe keep those wires above the board and just run the 12v below? ??? ??
You could use enclosed ducting on the front or back of the board to run the 240v single insulated wires to save buying any other wiring. :D
Or use timber on the back and make your own ducting although it would save a lot of time to use the pvc ducting.
 

cdjazman

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leckyau said:
leckyau said:
cdjazman said:
Hey John,

Thanks for the overview.
I am only using 12v so 12v to 5v wont be an issue...... Keeps it simple for me.... :) :) :)

Also will look into getting some single core double insulation for the earth/neutral/active wiring. Maybe keep those wires above the board and just run the 12v below? ??? ??
You could use enclosed ducting on the front or back of the board to run the 240v single insulated wires to save buying any other wiring. :D
Or use timber on the back and make your own ducting although it would save a lot of time to use the pvc ducting.

John,

I have tried a solution of putting the 240v above the board. What are your thoughts on the attached?

IMG_20170225_114854.jpg

IMG_20170225_114924.jpg
 

leckyau

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cdjazman said:
I have tried a solution of putting the 240v above the board. What are your thoughts on the attached?


All single insulated wires need to be unable to be touched with a finger. I'll attach some clauses out of the Australian Standards. It basically means that you must have double insulation. The best way would would to take the 240v wiring through the hole to the back into PVC ducting mounted on the back so that none can be touched. You could take the low voltage 12v wiring through your existing holes to the back as well but no need to double insulate them, the only requirement is that you separate them by >50mm. Of cause you can cross the 240v ducting but where it runs parallel keep it >50mm away.
You may prefer to use flexible conduit rather than ducting, I just prefer ducting as it looks neater.
you could first screw the ducting vertical down the back over the holes you have already for the 240v trying to keep it so you can still use the 12v holes then drill holes through the holes in the board already drilling through into the ducting for just the 240v then take the 12v wires to the side of the ducting. Hope that makes sense? Cheers, John
 

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OzAz

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I have tried a solution of putting the 240v above the board. What are your thoughts on the attached?


My 2c - I'd prefer to see the 240V cable in the now standard Blue / Brown / Green
I'd hate to see an accidental connection to 12V O/P becasue you're using the same colours.
 

cdjazman

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OK so have stepped back and thought maybe I over thought the process of the wiring and just made extra work for myself that was not necessary.

With that in mind I have followed Roostas way of power and "daisy-chained" using computer power cord.

I have also decided to put walls and a "mesh" door over the whole thing to keep hands away as well.

IMG_20170302_080421.jpg

IMG_20170302_080553.jpg

IMG_20170302_080610.jpg
 

scamper

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I don't want to rain on your parade, but the standard colour for ac wiring is active = brown and neutral = blue
Might as well do it right the first time :D
easy way to remember is bRown = Red
bLack = bLue


red and black are used for ac in fixed wiring. Red is active in ac like positive in dc.
 

cdjazman

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scamper said:
I don't want to rain on your parade, but the standard colour for ac wiring is active = brown and neutral = blue
Might as well do it right the first time :D
easy way to remember is bRown = Red
bLack = bLue


red and black are used for ac in fixed wiring. Red is active in ac like positive in dc.

Hey no please rain away :) :) :) :) :) :) ...... Like you say better to have it right in the first place.

I also have some American power cords that we cant use at work - I sell enterprise Lenovo / IBM / HP servers, hard drives etc....

So the U.S. power cables are useless...... Any ways I cut one open and it has thicker wire and are Red/Black/White..........
 
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